DIY cropped, denim joggers

I wanted to let everyone know, that over at my other blog, the new, pure denim one,

I've just posted these cozy, cropped, rather smug, denim joggers.

I can attest that they are perfect

for sailing through the spring and summer.

Re-cycling hats and dresses like Gone With the Wind

Gone with the Wind is and will always be a most favorite fashion inspiration. Tattered or dripping in gold, either way, the clothes play a supporting role. This week two associations with this movie popped up.

In the last room at the Brooklyn Museum’s exhibition “American High Style,” one finds the hat created by Mr. John in 1939, for Vienne Leigh. With a can-do spirit, this hat was industriously re-fashioned with proud determination and glamorous style.

Perched on top is a rooster feet ornament (barely visible in this photo due to the dimmed lights and no flash.) They have been lightly dusted in gold, blending artfully with a grand swash of gold cord, fringe and green velvet upholstery fabric.

Then in “My Mother’s Clothes” by Jeannette Montgomery Barron, on page 45, the writer explains that her mother, who wore only the finest designer clothes, fashioned the below elegant dress from upholstery fabric.

Suggesting that it was motivated by …perhaps a divorce, Barron connects the curtains of Tara to her mother’s defiant creation of this re-cycled dress as her vehicle to show she can conquer a painful personal war.
I just posted a review here on Barron’s book – which I most highly recommend. Visuals and prose combine high style with human thoughts and feelings about mothers, daughters and life and loss.

Re-cycling, re-fashioning with energy and resolution is tremendous and beautiful.

Denim slipper tutorial and Making time

The Making time column of the Guardian has featured my denim slipper tutorial.  Do skip over, as there are many wonderful and original tutorials for home crafters, with interesting reader comments that spur thought and needle.

Don't be surprised if, like me, after you make those slippers, you get the bug and stitch up a few variations.  Above are ones made with denim soles, which I call my shaggy dog ears.  I have discovered that once you've cut all the slipper pieces, the project packs small, just right for taking on the road when you're traveling and bored in transit.

Portland, Seattle and NYC

Dear Friends,

I'm traveling. 

First stop Portland, then last night I left Portland (can't help but mention it is one of my most favorite train stations) and am now in Seattle (where the train station is being restored and is bound to rival Portland's) followed later next week by New York.  I'm in the middle of my journey.  

I carried my camera, laptop, papers, inks, brushes and pencils, planning to post as I go along ... to share the journey. Traveling is so stimulating, as just the thought of writing in mid-May, in all her glory, in favorite spots in these wonderful cities, stirs up such desire to create and imaginatively explore.  But, as with many of my dreams and wishes, posting just hasn't been possible.  How can I post without scanning in all kinds of little treasures? Imagery is such a vital link to me and my blog.

So that is where I am, with lots and lots to share.

Soon. 

But not today.

Best wishes to all, near and far,

Nancy

The May 2010 fashion screensaver

Just click here to download this month’s screensaver

Here we are, already the second of May, and everyone is sliding into the spirit to thoroughly relax and enjoy the soft end of spring (...especially following April which was up to the dickens all month long.) Around my neighborhood, the azaleas and tulips are fading rapidly with the scent of wisterias and lilacs in full bloom, along with plenty of dandelions and pretty weeds. So with high expectations, of all kinds, and the lovely fresh sweet blooms surrounding all of us in delightful and surprising ways, I drew, painted and pasted together this screensaver.  If you're predisposed to print out more than the calendar, here are some of the fun elements that wound their way into the screensaver…

Above is one, from my little Birthday book from Giulio Giannini & Figlio in Florence. 

And below, another, from my deck of cards from the Portland Rose Garden.

Jean Repair launched!

hmm ... a blue rose ...

click here

a surprise

dear friends,

a fun dream,

that started
as a little seed

is about
to bloom.

I can’t wait to share it with you …

in just a few days.

Wishing you
a very sweet weekend,

See you on Monday,

Nancy

Useful list of hints and thoughts about successfully mending denim

(The big pile of denim scraps above allows one to pick and choose a favorite shade to patch jeans.)

Mending denim is one of the more satisfying and calming sewing skills. As you work, your mind easily wanders around with thoughts about food (always pleasant) or memories of the day. For me it conjures up the joy of knitting. You gaze with pride at your handiwork.  But after all your effort and time, you do want to be assured that your mending will be enjoyed and also durable. Through mending jeans for my own family I have learned a few useful and tried and true steps and techniques.  These ideas have been gathered together onto a list and I wanted to share it with you, hoping that it will help you avoid some of my silly mistakes ...

Click here to download the list or check it out.

Your comments or emails with your own hints, struggles or wishes, about mending denim are warmly welcomed.

Alice in Wonderland denim pedal pushers

This photo, of the “Alice in Wonderland” project in my book, “Denim Revolution,” captures the magical, upside down images of the beloved children’s story. I have always loved everything Alice, and couldn’t resist including a design named in her honor. It also demonstrates how you can take an old pair of jeans, in this case, ones with out-of-date flared legs, and playfully morph them so to speak, like Alice, into something new and fun. These pants after they were cropped, patched and stitched have all the charm and delight of a spring flower garden. 

… and then why not make yourself a - Lollipop Power Belt—a waist cincher with the leftover denim.  Happy sewing.

Les Tartes de Françoise arrives in nyc

We all have favorite desserts. When I start musing about cheesecakes, I can taste them with my eyes. New York varieties are thick and rich made with cream cheese and graham crackers, Italian versions created with ricotta cheese feel so homey, while the French versions are altogether another taste and texture, made with fromage blanc. One of my most favorite is “Fromage blanc spéculoos” from Les Tartes de Françoise. No matter how many times I’ve eaten it, at room temperature or slightly warm from the oven, it never fails to surprise and delight with its perfect combination of textures -- the fluffy, light, cheese snuggled into a crunchy crust of crushed spice cookies, the traditional, Belgium spéculoos variety. Only their ovens and chefs know how to bake them, just so. I have just returned from the Brussels, tiny, discreet, Françoise shop, actually the atelier, which as an afterthought happens to kindly also sell retail via word of mouth. When they heard my accent, the staff proudly told me that they have just opened a shop in NYC. So if you live in the neighborhood, and want to fall in love, do scout them out and enjoy a slice of Françoise’s Fromage blanc spéculoos!
And if you don't live in NYC or Brussels, here is a recipe for those special Belgium spice cookies, spéculoos.

A spot of sunshine in Seattle

In my family, Connie takes the most beautiful pictures.  She just sent me this one of little Panda enjoying a wink of sunshine in Seattle.  Isn't she glorious?  And inspiring a sewing project ... with soft, worn denim of course, ... naturally after a well deserved sleepy morning and a cozy read.

Free April 2010 fashion screensaver

(fellow bloggers - click here to download the April wallpaper)

Oh my, it is already April 4th and only today I am finally ready to upload the April calendar...I wonder what that means about the month ...certainly, that good things are around the corner!  The ideas for this month's wallpaper have been swimming around in my head for awhile.  It started with the romantic sound of the Mama's and Papa's song about going to San Fransisco with flowers in your hair.  As we enter into the heart of spring, dreaming about San Fransisco and all it's soft lovliness, is where I would love to be, right now.

The above postcard from Romania, dropped on my drawing table, with this little boy, or is it a girl, in her decorative hat, covered in grass, beads and flowers, and equally decorative jumper.  The image didn't end up in the wallpaper, but I wanted to share it with you, as it was an inspiration.

Finally, a couple images have been scanned and inserted into the painting from my set of playing cards, from one of my favorite spots, the Portland Rose Gardens.  It is an easy walk or bike ride from my childhood home, and full of my favorite spots, smells of the good earth, a seemingly endless variety of blooming roses, and my sweet memories.  Right now I'm remembering the day my younger brother and I visited, not so long ago, on a gentle April day, when he bought me this deck of cards.

Yves Saint Laurent exhibition at the Petit Palais in Paris

IF you are in Paris and love fashion then don’t miss the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective at the Petit Palais. Open until August 29th I was lucky to see it last week and am filled with lots of musings about his contribution to fashion and more.

At the most luxurious level of dressmaking - the “Haute Couture” YSL created clothes that were pure perfection in their construction, perfectly sublime in their proportion, ravishingly dazzling in their pure color and imaginative in the mix of color and texture. But, beyond all of that, his clothes had another dimension altogether, a cause célèbre for such a tribute. Each season he broke down stereotypes and barriers, setting women more free, empowering them with the clothes and style to boldly express their new freedom. YSL was a visionary artist who recognized the changing of the guard and had an active hand in ushering in a new freedom that helped shape women’s history. When YSL opened a new collection, women and journalists lined up to devour and embrace what he sent down the runway. He was king – he was an initiator, he was a visionary artist – he was the leader of the pack.

Today much of what he achieved is taken for granted, but forty-fifty years ago, when he had his first collections, it shocked and rocked the establishment. He understood the path to the future even though the general public was not always receptive, and reassured with interviews, magazine and television ads to explain his collections.

His followers, many legendary leaders in their respective fields, from actresses, to writers, artists, models, socialites or politicians, were like a devoted cult. This group of women, gathered from all avenues, lived colorful and exciting lives, celebrated for their thoughts, travels and actions. YSL understood their wishes and dreams and created clothes that naturally wove together their new lifestyles. His runways were for real people, his clients, they were not theatrical creations for media. Customarily YSL showed last in Paris, and his was the final word. No one touched him.

As much as we crave today’s fashion and adore the leading designers, it is fundamentally different from YSL’s collections. Today, each season is filled with more spectacular handbags, shoes, jeans, jewelry than the season before – it’s focused on the pièce de résistance. And though it is providing a wonderful thrill in our lives, the designers are not influencing history, not providing a new concept of clothing that influences history. To feel fashion’s footprint on society in the 21st century, one would need to look to the influence from ecological priorities, practical needs or the streets as opposed to fashion shows.

With my head full of all these thoughts I entered the Petit Palais. My expectations were high. Yet, as anxious as I was to see the exhibition, the grand entrance of the Palais is breathtaking, and I, like everyone else, stopped in my tracks, lingered, wandered around, and enjoyed the marvels of the entrance and its spacious proportions prior to entering the exhibition.

The exhibition, divided into 15 rooms, begins with the Dior years “Les Années Dior”. As one of Christian Dior’s assistants in 1958, YSL, at 21 years old, unexpected became his successor achieving immediate, critical success. Seven outfits are included in the exhibition from this period and they took me by surprise because they so encapsulate the dreams for 2010 and beyond. What I thought would have been old lady and boring was instead exquisite and pure. The dresses, suits, colors, textures, are soft, luminous, chic and classy. The first outfit is a silk faille crème tunic adorned with an oversized, navy, organza rose at the neck. It is layered over a slim navy skirt. Next to it is a grey flannel “Trapeze” day dress with a large pirouette collar and three quarter sleeves. The trapeze was one of the remarkable shapes that he invented. Even on the mannequin you feel the soft movement. Two evening dresses with fitted bodices opening into full skirted dirndls are again, light, soft and breezy, with the fullness achieved by delicate bias tape sewn around the underskirt hem. Couturier details such as scattered handmade flowers and tucks add romantic gracefulness. A day outfit was topped with a gently sculptured jacket, above wrist length sleeves, a Parda-ish curved shape in black crocodile verni, bordered in black mink and layered over a boucle brown slim skirt. It looked as modern and coveted today as it must have 50 years ago. This room summarized the key YSL artistry - taste, style, timelessness, flowers, pure, inventive, fresh, breezy, modern proportions. Can I say more, I loved the simplicity and perfection.

Next I wondered into “Studio Réel/Studio Mental” where his studio had been re-created. This was the “control center”, his world, where he sketched, fit and worked out his creations. On his actual desk, a simple table top on a pair of harnesses, were the often photographed, very personal collection of objects – a red glass heart, silver and bronze objects, a thick pad of note paper stamped YSL, his drawing pencils, colored pencils and drawing papers. A stack of books – Hollywood, Mondrian, Tunisia … lay on the left of his desk. Behind him more books lined shelves and fabric swatches, sketches, mementos and art were tacked on the wall. He didn’t travel, his ideas were imaginary, inspired by books, on artists, history and places. He derived inspiration from all these objects on hand, in his studio, as well as his extensive art collection.

Off the “studio” with music by Franck playing in the background, a small, dark room is filled with dresses from the “Bal de Proust.” Orchestrated by the dramatic hostess Marie Helene de Rothschild in 1971, it was a legendary party of fantasy and glamour. I gasped when I realized that the clothes displayed were the one’s YSL had specially created for Jane Birkin, Hélène Rochas, Nan Kempner and of course Rothschild …. to think, YSL, carte blanche, the imagination. Overdose.

In 1962 YSL opened his own couture house, and this is where the revolution begins. Room 4 – “La Révolution des Genres” is opened with the simple, double-breasted navy blue pea jacket, T-shirt and white pants, flat shoes that shook the fashion world. He put women in pants. And there is the famous photograph of Verushka (above) looking savage in his Safari tunic and shorts. He put women in pants, in every combination imaginable. Lined in the little gold chairs of the couture shows on the left side are suits with skirts and on the right pantsuits. I just admit, that it was the one room where there was nothing to see – it just felt so ordinary – conventional. The films that accompanied it were interesting, as they explained the power behind the pant revolution – and the re-shaping of society but the display missed the mark.

The next room, “YSL et Les Femmes” has about a dozen outfits, each for one of his legendary patrons, from Paloma Picasso to the resistance fighter, Francoise Giroud, from his colleague, Elsa Schiaparelli to Diana Vreeland and Lauren Bacall. The clothes draw a circle around his devoted patronage, their varied lifestyles and how he understood and embraced them.

Then, in Room 6, “Catherine Deneuve, Une Rencontre” she opens her closet. This legendary French actress, whom he dressed in film, and beyond, reveals the contents of her closet, the reds, blacks, jewelry, shoes, all of it - the centerpiece, the little black robe with white satin color and cuffs from the film “Belle de jour.” Her intrinsically French style is ravishing and conceived by YSL.

YSL was the first designer to launch perfume with a provocative advertising campaign, photos, videos of songs, and gigantic blow-ups of his sketches are found in rooms 7 and the rotunda.

Room 9, is one of my personal favorites, “Eté 1971, Le Scandale de la Collection 40.” Inspired by fashion from the 40s, the reviews, pasted on the walls were devastating, condemning the collection as scandalously trying to glamorize the clothing from WWII. The collection did not sell, but it clearly defines how we dress today. The soft crepe-de-chine printed dresses mixed with novelty, oversized shoes and tailored jackets, the mix of pretty, colorful, retro, shaped, feminine or masculine – expresses a charming individuality.

Everywhere were his expressions and ideas (above) his New Year's posters, film, photos and information surrounding the various eras.

“Les Voyages Imaginaires” takes you to Spain, Russia, China, Japan and beyond. I’ve rambled on and on, and could write pages about these clothes, but one must see them. They are his imaginary conceptions of the romantic folkloric influences of these cultures. Rich, fantasy worlds that capture the magic through the colors, textures, silhouettes, embellishments and accessories associated with the country. All of it has been created by fine craftsmen and women. One wants all those different pants, the ethnic shapes, the luxurious breath of fabric. YSL was known to say that the Russian collection was his best ever. (I happen to have Vogue patterns from this collection. They require yards of material and I have never made anything. Vogue patterns used to be such a fashion resource.)

This is followed by “Dialogue avec L’Art.” Art by Vincent Van Gogh is breathtaking, intricately beaded on a jacket, Piet Mondrian (above) where block shapes are cut into wool jersey sheaths, and bronze metalized leather breast plates by Claude Lalanne are worn with floaty navy mousseline dresses and capes. It simply goes on and on and would take pages to describe. African crafts are re-created into evening mini dresses, and a knitted wool white dress, with white silk ribbons from 1965 is another enchanting idea of feminity.

Before Madonna or Lady Gaga he was wrapping women in bondage in bold, intricate, artistic ways that was thrilling. He was giving them dramatic ways to surprise and delight and feel beautiful.

The final room, which could have been an exhibition on its own, is “Le Dernier Bal.” One sees hundreds of ways to dress for the evening. From pure simplicity to outrageous pattern and color - every piece- becomes a jewel on its own. Then, lined floor to ceiling, 3 or 4 rows high, along the back wall, are “Le Smoking” his black pantsuit for a woman, for evening, immaculately tailored, so it falls on the body impeccably. Sometimes it is shaped as a jumpsuit, other times with shorts. It is shown with a black lace bra or a white blouse, each unique and stylish.

Finally the “Le Choc des Couleurs” where the walls are lined with his carefully clipped pages upon pages of fabrics swatches, arranged in vibrant colors and textures, unique shades of blue, green, red, yellow, bringing all the senses to feelings of nature, birds of paradise, somewhere between life and dreams. In between the panels of fabrics the floating, mousseline draped evening dresses from his final collection of 2002. They are pure, exceptional for their simplicity.

The exhibition ends with a film from this farewell show. You glimpse the models wearing many of the clothes one has just seen in the exhibition. They all come to life, taking on another character, with soft fluid movements, and one realizes that actually, in the end, the point was how they move, sweep, prance and come to life. The models communicate the pleasure of wearing the clothes and it’s very personal.

Like how Andy Warhol (above) used the medium of screen printing to express his statements about society, YSL used women’s clothing as his means to express and reflect on society.

Above - my ticket stub.  Below - a sculpture off the main corridor.

And finally, the Eiffel Tower at night as one bids farewell to Paris.

I have certainly rambled on and on, and I only hope it sparks your interest, as it certainly did mine.  À bientôt.

The Delicious Miss Dahl

Just watched the first episode of The Delicious Miss Dahl” on BBC 2. Ohh, it is so yummy.  From her claim that starting your day with an Arnold Bennet omlette will ensure a wonderful day, to self indulgent treats,  "My Perfect Dinner," martinis, all are easy, charming and healthy-ish.  The format is personal, with delightful illustrations, hand scribbled text, recipe cards, her lovely trenchcoats, black dresses, sweaters, and images of home, hearth, food, natural flower arrangements and ... foods. Of course, immediately after watching, ... I speed into the kitchen to whip up some treats.  Sophie Dahl is having fun and sharing her secrets - click here for the recipes - but the visuals are lost, you do need to watch the story develop, so try to catch the next episodes, indulge yourself and enjoy every bite.

Alice at Ladurée Royale

No matter how many times I pass by Ladurée on Rue Royal in Paris, like an enchanting magnet, it never fails to draw me inside by the window displays, the colors and the message of favors.  Unfortunately it is forever packed with like minded, so you must have a lot of time and patience (of which I had neither this trip.)
Regardless the windows are instilled in my mind.  They were filled with larger than life-sized painted wooden cut-outs of Alice.  At her feet was a music box, lined with a black and white checkerboard.  The illustration is by Kera Till who catches Ladurée's unique and whimsical appeal so perfectly.  Snuggled inside the music box are the real goodies, moist, crisp, melting, apple maccaroons - sublime - those I did taste the night before (along with the pistachio and chocolate ones) and can attest they are perfect!

Apart from the shop, their teahouse is equally inviting.  Their teas, coffees, menu is unique and delicious.  For this reason alone, it attracts all kinds of people let along ones like me who would wonder in just for the romantic decoration, the pretty napkins, silver tea pots and more.  An intrisically Parisian landmark.  Rue Royal is my favorite Ladurée. Don't miss it when you are in Paris.

The Chanel Tweed Fabrics - Linton Tweeds

Nothing is nicer than sewing a Chanel suit with the same material that Coco used. The British mill, Linton Tweeds, located near the Scottish border in the English Lake District is where Coco went for her legendary fabrics … so why shouldn’t you! The quality, patterns and colors are luxuriously beautiful. I contacted them and they sent me the above swatches - plus more - with their not too high - price list.  The materials catch light and have a soft handfeel unique to the mill.  If you start to unravel a swatch you end up counting a dozen different yarns, mixed and twisted and colored in all kinds of unique ways.  The ability to weave this broad variety of textures is what makes Linton so valuable, and one really wants to support such a mill and the timeconsuming, individual products that they create.  Visit their website to follow how the fabric is woven, washed, inspected and read about their history. Below is a zoomed in view of my stash of swatches.  One of the plaids even has sequins woven into the fabric.

Here is a link to a sew-a-long blog just for the Chanel suit . (Isn’t it a wonderful way to use the internet to advantage for a most hand-crafted, personal project?) And even if you're not quite up to sew yourself a suit – what about a newsboy cap or a beret, or some flower brooches ... in a Chanel tweed?

Pretty blue and white cotton dress

I've had this photo for ages and wanted to share it.  It's from an exhibition in London at the V&A.  The pretty silhouette (there was no designer noted for the dress) and airy cotton lawn is dreamy and lovely like the clothes in MAD MEN.  I'm thinking of making it out of two different Liberty prints - I have just enough of one print for the top and the other for the skirt and the bow ... .

March Fashion Wallpaper

(Click here to download or print out the March wallpaper.)

Wishing everyone a good month.

My Parson's pattern making workbook - two sleeves patterns

After reading Wendy's new book on Dresses, and spying all those soft and lovely sleeves in the New York Fall 2010 collections, I was motivated to pull out my old workbooks from my pattern making courses at Parsons The New School for Design. We had a wonderful, old world teacher, and I wish I could remember her name, as I would love to mention it here, but ... if it comes to me, I will mention it in a later post.

In addition to the main task - learning to make full sized patterns - every student also created their own workbook with miniature pattern making notes and tissue paper patterns. In my workbook, there is a little envelope of my slopers (basic patterns) on the heavier weight, tagboard paper, with all the same markings noted on the full-sized versions. We used these slopers to create the little tissue paper patterns that are glued to the two pages I've scanned into this post. (Yes, those are not drawings but tiny tissue patterns.) They look adorable, like little doll patterns.

My notes are unedited, written in ink, not very neatly, very naively, but regardless -- here they are and two different ways you can create beautiful, soft sleeves.Click here to upload pdf file of scans.

Tutorial for mending jeans with designer style - technique # 4

Awhile ago, White Oak Cone Denim gave me a small book about an historic collection of denim clothing found in an abandoned shack near Greensboro, North Carolina. The images and information that denim historians have gathered about this clothing helped me to understand from another angle, and more deeply, an era of American history. The clothing, dating from the 1930s, tell the story of a family, living in poverty, working as tobacco sharecroppers. The clothing has been beautifully repaired and mended, by one person. Overalls have been cut into pants, newer denim has patched old, worn holes and resourceful combinations of patches and hand stitching have created an unintentional but beautiful, folkloric patchwork. Above is a scan of a pair of children's overalls. I have seen actual samples, and they are powerful, for the life that they document and also the thoughts and images they bring to mind of this homemaker, who worked to maintain the family's clothing with respect and durability.

As some of you may already know, I am writing a series of articles on mending, repairing and patching jeans with designer style. Fashion is driven by many different events or ideas, and when something is compelling, like this collection of denim clothing, it bound to have a strong influence.

The technique that I have written up for this particular post is inspired by this collection of historic clothing. With respect to this nameless family, I have tried to capture their spirit of resourcefulness and craft, and named the technique "Sharecroppers" patches.
Above is a photo of my final jeans. Patches are put where the denim was totally worn and ripped and where it needed to be re-enforced. Stitches, thread and denim scraps were chosen for how natural, practical or beautiful they looked.

Part of the goal was to make the inside as beautiful as the outside. This would make the jeans more durable, preventing the necessity of repeated repairs. Below is a photo of the finished inside of one of the legs.

Below is a photo of overalls from Ralph Lauren's spring 2010 collection that wonderfully capture the spirit.
For the entire tutorial on the "Sharecroppers patches" click here.