My Parson's pattern making workbook - two sleeves patterns

After reading Wendy's new book on Dresses, and spying all those soft and lovely sleeves in the New York Fall 2010 collections, I was motivated to pull out my old workbooks from my pattern making courses at Parsons The New School for Design. We had a wonderful, old world teacher, and I wish I could remember her name, as I would love to mention it here, but ... if it comes to me, I will mention it in a later post.

In addition to the main task - learning to make full sized patterns - every student also created their own workbook with miniature pattern making notes and tissue paper patterns. In my workbook, there is a little envelope of my slopers (basic patterns) on the heavier weight, tagboard paper, with all the same markings noted on the full-sized versions. We used these slopers to create the little tissue paper patterns that are glued to the two pages I've scanned into this post. (Yes, those are not drawings but tiny tissue patterns.) They look adorable, like little doll patterns.

My notes are unedited, written in ink, not very neatly, very naively, but regardless -- here they are and two different ways you can create beautiful, soft sleeves.Click here to upload pdf file of scans.

Tutorial for mending jeans with designer style - technique # 4

Awhile ago, White Oak Cone Denim gave me a small book about an historic collection of denim clothing found in an abandoned shack near Greensboro, North Carolina. The images and information that denim historians have gathered about this clothing helped me to understand from another angle, and more deeply, an era of American history. The clothing, dating from the 1930s, tell the story of a family, living in poverty, working as tobacco sharecroppers. The clothing has been beautifully repaired and mended, by one person. Overalls have been cut into pants, newer denim has patched old, worn holes and resourceful combinations of patches and hand stitching have created an unintentional but beautiful, folkloric patchwork. Above is a scan of a pair of children's overalls. I have seen actual samples, and they are powerful, for the life that they document and also the thoughts and images they bring to mind of this homemaker, who worked to maintain the family's clothing with respect and durability.

As some of you may already know, I am writing a series of articles on mending, repairing and patching jeans with designer style. Fashion is driven by many different events or ideas, and when something is compelling, like this collection of denim clothing, it bound to have a strong influence.

The technique that I have written up for this particular post is inspired by this collection of historic clothing. With respect to this nameless family, I have tried to capture their spirit of resourcefulness and craft, and named the technique "Sharecroppers" patches.
Above is a photo of my final jeans. Patches are put where the denim was totally worn and ripped and where it needed to be re-enforced. Stitches, thread and denim scraps were chosen for how natural, practical or beautiful they looked.

Part of the goal was to make the inside as beautiful as the outside. This would make the jeans more durable, preventing the necessity of repeated repairs. Below is a photo of the finished inside of one of the legs.

Below is a photo of overalls from Ralph Lauren's spring 2010 collection that wonderfully capture the spirit.
For the entire tutorial on the "Sharecroppers patches" click here.

Shaun White's denim pants

The Winter Olympics is thrilling, passionate and breathtaking. These brilliant athletes share their world and dreams with us for two weeks. Their compelling, state of the art equipment and clothing, is catching every one's eye and certainly headed toward influencing design products far beyond Vancouver, in all kinds of ways. Who didn't notice gold medal snowboarder Shaun White's baggy - GORE-TEX pants. Waterproof, light, and fashionable like a young rebel, their too large, mended and ragged denim look, is hip like the snowboarding competition for which they've been designed to enhance the athlete's performance. But isn't it a hoot that they look like "mom" was up the night before, hand patching his favorite pants, his lucky gear, for his big day! I guess tradition meets state-of-art ... if you have a pair of hand-me-down jeans, that you want to patch up, try the cat and mouse patch, that you can click - here .

Built by Wendy Dresses review

I have wondered about these SEW U books, and am delighted to finally have one of my own, the newest volume “Built by Wendy Dresses: The SEW U Guide to Making a Girl’s Best Frock.” It is a wonderful book and Wendy is a terrific teacher. She speaks your language, shares her enthusiasm and explains everything you need to know to create beautiful dresses.

The book covers all the basics, from information about the tools and silhouettes; narrowing down your best fit; pattern making; about two dozen separate dress projects; plus an envelope with three, sized, dress patterns. Even though there is a lot of material, for me, the chief purpose for a sewer to acquire this book is to teach a beginner to an intermediate level sewer, how to work with dress patterns, how to alter them to achieve their designer vision and how to adjust them for a better fit. This is a great skill for any sewer or anyone who loves fashion. It broadens your sewing ability and also your confidence to freely change and improve your clothing or your sewing projects.

Once you understand and acquire pattern making skills for dresses, you can utilize those techniques for anything from children’s clothing to an extra, extra large sized dress. In other words, the technique will go well beyond the three dress patterns that she has included in the back of the book.

If you are a beginner don’t be intimidated, you will learn the techniques, just follow her clear, logical steps, one by one, and by the second project you will be on a roll.

The spiral-bound book, is the kind of workbook, which invites the reader to jot useful notes, slip in a sketch or magazine photo of a dress you want to make, or staple a swatch of fabric to another page. Like a favorite cookbook, as you use it, it becomes your very own journal and work in progress documenting past, current and future sewing projects.

I also, very much respect, that she has included three, dress patterns in the book. Trust her patterns. They are her dress slopers (basic patterns) her starting point for all kinds of dresses developed from almost two decades of producing dresses that women choose to wear and buy. They are proven territory and will not only shortcut your project - since it is not always necessary to build a pattern from scratch - but also will insure a better fit, and a more elegant proportion.

Wendy spends quite a long time explaining the importance of good fit. Fit is a reason on it’s own to sew and make your own patterns, instead of buying off the rack. A well fitted dress feels comfortable, and with comfort comes a glow that spreads and is communicated to others. She writes about all the various considerations and how to assess your size. I particularly like that she mentions that “it’s not uncommon for women to wear one size on top and another on the bottom.” In other words use your own common sense, there are no rules, follow your body and personal preferences.

On the downside, she really skimmed on fabric selection. Your fabric choice, as much as the fit and the design, can make or break a dress. The drape and look of a fabric differ greatly within each category, for example tweeds – they come in so many different weights, textures and qualities. With that in mind, I would advise one to examine their own wardrobe carefully, or dresses in shops, to learn the differences between the hand feel, the drape, the care (hand washable or dry clean only), and the durability, before selecting the fabric. Develop your knowledge about fabrics, colors and patterns. Always buy the best quality fabric you can find and budget for, as it makes sewing a pleasure and will make the dress more special, more lasting, and more worthy of your work.

Even though it is not a book for experienced pattern makers, it is shock full of her valuable tips and advice (“…think twice, cut once.”), and her voice is fun, so you still may enjoy having it as part of your sewing library. Wendy’s book is fun and easy, and I highly recommend it.

ohh, and one more favorite, Ralph Lauren

Love RL's collection. The soft, short, circular, sleeved blouse, layered over a black, lacey (must be silk) sweater, and all those yummy classic fall wool, shoes and shapes. For home sewers, those sleeves are super fun to draft yourself and sew up. And what an inspiration, from the best of the New York runways, to start layering one's wardrobe to complement one's lifestyle. London's next. Photo from NYMag

Jacob and Rodarte and their dreamy looks for fall

The New York Fall 2010 collections are wrapping up and here are my personal favorites. From the top, I adore the new, longer, softer skirt silhouettes from Marc Jacobs. In this photo he has layered it under a high waisted English riding coat. These clothes celebrate beautiful materials. Suddenly, what is more luxurious than the feel of a swirl of fabric that has been finely tailored. His stockings, which must be silk, the bags and the no-color colors all capture the childlike dreamy spirit of his theme music for the collection "Somewhere Over the Rainbow."

Then there is Rodarte, and who doesn't love the work of these sisters and how they re-invent fashion. Again, like Jacobs, they showed longer skirts, or if they were shorter, it's feels more like the effects from layering, always soft, with wispy layers, in their unconventional vision. The puff sleeved dresses, silky knee high stockings, ties wrapped around the ankles, pretty gloves, everything is cloudy, mysterious and feminine.

photos from NYMag.com

Make yourself a pair of Valentine earrings

What is more lovely than fresh flowers as an expression of love? I’m spotting people all over the city carrying single roses or lovely bunches of pink and red flowers. It is those tempting, pretty, flowers, that seem to be everywhere, that have inspired me to make these golden, pink and red earrings. Only you will know that they are only a slip of paper, as don't you think that they look much more valuable and important? If you want to make yourself a pair, below is the artwork -

and for the entire, very easy, for all abilities, tutorial - click here. Wishing you a Happy Valentine's Day.

Hommage à Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen, the legendary force behind fashion as we know it today, a master tailor, creative genius and inspiration and friend to so many in the fashion world, has passed away today. Fashion was his canvas, but actually, it didn't matter, his influence was far beyond that medium. His artistry filtered through our lives on all kinds of levels. He was a true innovator. He will be so very greatly missed.Daphne Guinness wearing McQueen in all it's glory and below, Lady Gaga,

... dancing in McQueen's spectacular boots in her "Bad Romance" video, only a few of endless images of women who were captivated by his art.

Mending and patching jeans - the "soho-boho" patch

click here to download tutorial

Welcome to chapter no. 3 and my project to write a series of articles about mending and repairing jeans. When mending jeans, different techniques come into play from mending other kinds of slacks. One needs to respect the special qualities of the fabric as well as understand the individual style of the wearer. There are many ways to incorporate these elements when you patch and mend. In chapter 3, you will find a technique for hard worn jeans, that need durable patches to endure continued hard wear. It’s been named “Soho-Hobo” patches, for how it is inspired by the look of the youthful rebel, the poor but resourceful artists, who founded Soho in the 60s in New York. It's a cool one.

February's heartfelt wallpaper sketch

click here to download this month's wallpaper calendar

Maybe, because I have always adored hearts, especially deep, rich, handmade chocolates that are sunk into lush red velvet heart shaped boxes, and all the other tempting things associated with Valentine’s Day – that this month’s calendar had to reflect all of it and more. I started painting and drawing red, violet and pink hearts with this heavenly, real gold, solid gold painted background, like a golden heart … and from there the sketch developed. How many hearts can you find in the sketch? Wishing you a most love-ly month of February!

Need help to fix my blog feed

Once again I am receiving emails from fellow bloggers that they are not able to follow my blog. It is so discouraging to hear this, since my reason to post is my wish that they will inspire or be enjoyed by this special community of bloggers whom I enjoy, and who inspire me!

I do know that my blog fee settings are sent to “full.”

If anyone can help me to technically overcome this problem, with pleasure I will send you a great big hand sketched thank you note!! With many thanks in advance.

Paris Couture Spring 2010 Madness

Dior Couture, Spring 2010

above photo from Chanel is from style rookie, who, don't you think, was Karl's muse ...

While I have been at home hemming my jeans, some people have been thrown into the twilight zone of the Paris Couture fashion fantasies, for the Spring 2010 shows. As I gaze through the images, while mending my jeans, I do feel a bit like Cinderella ... I mean, after all, we are on opposite sides of the moon and the stars, at this moment, as I'm trying to be resourceful and others are inventing magic and looks destined for fantasies. But how can one not love all the creativity and madness. Chanel's silver glitter is everywhere, stockings, nails, shoes and jewerly - silver highlights in the hair, the way it's been teased into a power shape accented with flowers and bows, is so 2010 and looking forward. Thank you Chanel!
Dior is also on the other side of the stars. The sumptuous flowers and fabrics drapped all over the runway, with the overly elaborate taffetas, make-up, hats and clothes, are simply out of this world literally. We must pause, enjoy the magic, the imagination, and the world of never never land...... realizing, that what looks outrageous at this moment, as fashion goes, is going to be on everyone tomorrow - just watch it happen! Hmm, can't wait for Spring, for the piles of flowers and sumptuous clothing. Photos from French Vogue, The Vine, Style Rookie and the Chanel site.

How to hem jeans with designer style

click here for tutorial

Even though hemming jeans is one of the most common clothing alterations, surprisingly, it is rarely sewn correctly (and when it’s wrong it’s truly glaring, like a billboard wrapped around your ankles.) The widespread mistake is to just fold the excess length back and stitch it like any other pants. This is in conflict with the stitching and washed details on the cuff that need to be seen and not hidden.
When jeans need to be shortened the hem should be durable, invisible and not change the style or look of the jeans. The hemming technique in this tutorial is designed especially for denim. I love to give names to techniques and this is named "For Your Eyes Only" due to how it blends so seamlessly, that only the seamstress knows it’s there. As you will discover, it is simple and easy to do, or, if you’re not a seamstress, then to explain, to the person who will shorten your jeans. Repairing jeans is a pleasure because the material sews beautifully and the wearer is so appreciative.
Click here to download or print the tutorial.

A handknitted vintage cardigan

A while ago I knit this sweater from a vintage pattern I found in my mother’s fabulous stash of patterns. It’s made from Rowan’s (now discontinued,) “Lurex Shimmer.” The yarn has a soft, lovely hand feel, and the copper color is particularly pretty. Lately I am wearing it with old, worn jeans and am searching for the pattern as I want to knit it again, this time in a super fine, pale pink, merino wool.
My mom, by the way, is an incredible knitter. I have many sweaters, ski sweaters, vests, hats, and various pullovers, that she has made for me over the years. Each stitch is beautifully, evenly formed with great skill. One of my favorite things to do is to browse through her pile of knitting patterns and books, of which she has gathered a personal and richly diverse collection. I know each one by heart, and they all have associations and memories. It’s similar to searching through a button box, and not unlike the intimate pleasure, of being with one’s own memories when one looks through a family photo album. Now, back to searching for that misplaced cardigan pattern!

Sweet,heart shaped sunglasses

10 Corso Como is not unlike a candy shop for adults. They imagine, invent, produce and select the most wonderful things ... such as these red, heart shaped sunglasses. Visit their website to discover their music, prints, designs, scents and beauty products as well as their tiny hotel, cafe and more. As I browsed around, I found these flowers, a one-of-a-kind, handmade bouquet a playful keepsake of their logo (to be found also on their tissue wrapping paper, which is too cool to be tossed.) Such a tangle of wire stems and bold blossoms - aren't they beautiful! 10 Corso Como is a whole world, situated around a lovely enclosed garden, in the heart of Milan.

Inspiring Valentine's ideas

The above "chunky cutting board made from French oak" seems like a special way to enjoy fresh bread on Valentine's Day and all year long ... from MAGAZYN, in Antwerp.In "Liberty's" newsletter, among other wonders, are cake decorating classes especially for Valentine's Day with Mich Turner of the Little Venice Cake Company. I hope you enjoy all the delicious, lovely and imaginative images, and maybe, someone will make it to the workshop!

Links for giving aid to Haiti

New York Times online has compiled a thorough list of links and information.
Google has also created a page with many links to aid organizations and information on how to SMS a donation (only within the U.S.):
SMS text “HAITI” to 90999 to donate $10 to Red Cross relief efforts
SMS text “YELE” to 501501 to Donate $5 to Yele Haiti’s Earthquake Relief efforts
SMS text "GIVE10" to 20222 to donate $10 to Direct Relief

Velvet slipper tutorial

If you want to make yourself a dreamy pair of slippers, click here for my tutorial posted on my most favorite crafting blog - craftzine. Craftzine has formatted the instructions with plenty of sketches, into an easy to use, nice to keep and to re-use or pass to a friend, pdf file. And once you make a pair in velvet -- you may start to make more ... ...such as the ones above made with a Liberty cabbage rose print, re-cycled denim soles and antique lace and fringe trims ... and when you finish, just put your feet up and gaze at your lovely handywork. Ahh, all is a day's work.

Desigual - why not disguise your jeans ...

For a wonderful way to re-think how you may recycle, patch, decorate or re-shape altogether your cast-off jeans, click this link which will take you to Desigual, the rebellious, streetwise Spanish clothier.

January 2010 fashion screensaver

Welcome to 2010 with the January 2010 calendar!

Click here to download and print a copy or use it as your screensaver.

It's already the 3rd of January - and I am filled with the giddy enthusiasm of entering a new decade. I'm already madly in love with 2010. The new inventions and goals of the last decade seem to have magically evolved into the wiser, better and more clear hopes of the future.

Today the ground is covered in fresh snow, so I've sketched the way the world looks -everyone bundling up, layers upon bulky layers, in their own individual way, to enclose themselves with the feelings of winter, the freshness of the air, surrounded by the faintest glow lingering from the fireworks that rang in the year only hours ago.

Cheers to all and one in twenty-ten!