21centurydressmakers

How to Make a Pair of Cozy and Sweet Ballet Slippers

2011-07-17T11:28:00.012+02:00

Click here for PDF version and patterns

These pretty ballet slippers -- a most enjoyable and fun sewing project -- can be made in a leisurely afternoon. Rummage through your left over fabric scraps and notions, get started and before you know it, you will be admiring your handiwork as you pad around in your cozy new slippers.

What you need …
**unless the yardage is noted, lay your patterns on the material to determine the yardage
• Re-cycled denim
• Cotton fabric (pink gingham) for lining
• Cotton fabric (eggplant floral print) for piping, heel trim and ruffles
• 24” x 5/8” wide velvet (raspberry) ribbon, cut in half
• Iron on interfacing
• Cardboard
• Leather, vinyl, denim or another durable material, for the sole
• 1 yard x ¼” wide elastic, cut in half
• Thread, scissors, pins, pencil, needles, sewing machine
• PDF (click here) upper, sole and ruffle patterns

Check the fit before you start …
The pattern included is an adult, medium size. To check the fit, stand on the sole pattern. It should peek out around the perimeter of your foot. If you need to reduce or enlarge the pattern, cut the pattern in quarters down the middle, and then extend, or overlap the pieces to fit your foot. Tape together, smooth out the new lines, and apply the changes also to the upper pattern. Then cut an upper and sole out of some leftover fabric, gather the toe and baste the two pieces together. Slip it on, check the fit, and apply any further adjustments to your pattern pieces.

Cut your pieces …
• Cut two denim uppers + two upper interfacings.

• Cut two soles from the durable material.

• For the lining, cut two soles and two uppers out of the pink gingham + two sole and two upper interfacings.

• Cut the floral accent fabric: Cut two bias strips 1” x 24” wide from the floral print for the piping + 4 x half-moon pattern for the ruffle + 2 strips 1 ½” wide x 3” long for the heel trim.

• Transfer all pattern notches.

• Cut two cardboard soles (cutting 3/8” smaller all around the perimeter of the Sole
Pattern. (If you like your slippers more cushiony cut out a pair of foam liners as well.)

Easy to follow sewing instructions…
Denim Upper and Sole:
Iron the interfacing on the back side of the denim uppers and soles.

Sew a row of basting stitches between the toe notches.Stitch the heel together with a 3/8” seam allowance and press open.

Reinforce the heel seam with the cotton floral fabric as follows: Interface 3” strip floral accent fabric. Fold back ¼” seam allowance along each length and press. With wrong sides facing each other, center strip over the heel seam. Pin and trim any excess off the top and bottom so strip aligns with denim edge. Edge stitch along each length. Pull the toe basting thread, easing gathers, so that the toe will curl under softly. With right sides facing, pin the upper to the sole, matching notches. Baste and remove pins. Stitch seam with 3/8” seam allowance. It is a wee bit tricky, so take your time to stitch a neat, curved line, with toe gathers evenly distributed. Turn right side out. With something firm, like a pair of blunt scissors, press firmly on the seam, to give it a pressed finish.

Make Lining:
Iron interfacing to the cotton lining upper and sole.

Following above instructions for the denim, stitch the lining upper to the sole.

Assemble Slipper:
Slip cardboard soles inside slippers.
*If you like your slippers cushiony then slip the foam soles on top of the cardboard.

Slip the linings inside the slippers, smoothing neatly in place. Pin.

Baste together all around the perimeter of the edge.

Trim off any lining that extends beyond denim.

Make the Ruffle:
With wrong sides facing, stitch one pair of ruffles together, sewing ¼” around the half circle shape but not the bottom.

Turn ruffle inside out and press.

Stitch a row of basting stitches ¼”, along the bottom edge. Pull the basting stitches to form soft gathers.

Pin ruffle, centered, aligned with denim edge, to slipper front. Baste and remove pins.

Add Slipper Piping and Elastic:
With right sides facing each other and edges aligned, pin the bias floral fabric all around the perimeter of the slipper edge. Baste, remove pins. Stitch ¼” around the edge.

Zigzag stitch the elastic around the slipper edge as follows: Align the elastic with the slipper edge on the inside, pinning it all around with a little ease. (You only need a little elastic ease for a good fit.) Zigzag stitch down elastic center.

Press the floral bias piping up. Fold it over the edge, and tuck the seam allowance under. Pin it around the perimeter so that you have a neat piped edge.

Hand stitch the piping closed, with the stitching line following the seam join point on the right side, so that your stitches are hidden. Be careful to pull the elastic as you stitch, to maintain the ease.

Velvet Ribbon Bows:
Tightly tie two small bows. Cut bow ends at diagonal angle.

Hand tack bows to cover the join point of the ruffle.

Pad around with a big smile and enjoy!

Sew a shower bonnet from re-cycled plastic and fabric scraps

2011-04-03T20:05:00.004+02:00

Above is a "Jazzy" shower bonnet. It is lined in a green re-cycled plastic bag, with a nylon lace overlay, and fun ribbon scraps and odd buttons rummaged from notions box. Below is another version, this one made from an old vintage, polyester California State scarf. These bonnets take an hour maximum to make, and are so practical and fun - and decorative and cheery in the bathroom. This is how you sew them...

Gather together your materials - above, is a vintage polyester scarf, a green plastic bag pulled from the re-cycle bin, 1 yard of 1" wide turquoise gingham ribbon + (not in the photo) 1 yard of 1/4" wide elastic, 1 yard of 1" wide yellow gingham ribbon, red thread.

Directions:

Cut the scarf in a circle, with a 20" diameter. Repeat with the green plastic.

With wrong sides facing, align the two circles together, and stitch all around, 5/8" from the edge.

Sew the turquoise ribbon around the edge.

Make a casing for the elastic with the yellow ribbon. Align the yellow ribbon 1/2" from the edge of the turquoise ribbon. Stitch with a zigzag stitch, 1/2" from the edge. Stitch a second row, 1/8" from the other edge, leaving a 2" gap to pull the elastic through the casing.

Slip the elastic through the gap, pulling it through, pin the ends to together, to an ease that is comfortable for your head. Stitch elastic closed, and clip excess.

Fold back excess ribbon to form a bow, and tack with a button, or two.

Enjoy!

February Fashion Screensaver

2011-01-30T15:05:00.006+01:00

Click here to download or print your free February screensaver)
When I create a monthly screensaver, I simply can't anticipate where it will lead. It just sort of happens, with the fashion story unfolding, as I sketch. This month, is no exception.

Starting with the center of the month - Valentine's Day, I thought everything would be pink, but instead it grew into a story about discovery. One sketch is an inquisitive portrait. But (hidden to the viewer) she is wearing USLU Airlines Nail Polish "LAS (or Las Vegas) Eau de Colette.” Described as a “blued hex perfumed” polish, it sounds lovely, and, unexpected, like, a blue valentine. I haven't smelled it, but doesn't it seem like a reason to visit Paris and go to Colette? The other sketch is of a woman, as a dandy, strutting all her fashion on the outside. Sporting a printed floral, bell bottomed, pantsuit, with hair dyed to match, or almost match, her poppy velvet beret. She is wearing Dior’s sparkly nails “Mandarin Orange.”

Fashion is fun, and releasing one’s fashion desires feels soo good. It is also the best defense to fend off those bitter cold and dark winter days that are bound to happy all month long.
All kinds of wonders and delights await us in February. It is only up to us, to open our heart, follow new paths, and discover and enrich our life and those around us with the delights of the unexpected.
Wishing you to enjoy February, in all it's glory!
P.S. The LOVE poster is from YSL, dated 1992.

Emmanuelle Alt appointed Editor of French Vogue

2011-01-07T18:53:00.005+01:00

Carine Roitfeld (former Editor) and Emmanuelle Alt (on left, future editor)

photograph courtesy of mystylefest.wordpress.com

I adore French Vogue and how Carine Roitfeld has re-invented it these last few years, without limits, and using it as a vehicle for her personal expression about women, luxury fashion and lifestyle. Then suddenly, the carpet was whipped up unexpectedly and she resigned. It has just been annouced that her partner in crime, Emmanuelle Alt, has been appointed the new Editor in Chief. This is a woman with a more nonchalant style, less sexy, more tom-boyish (actually the petit bateau striped top in the January screensaver post just below is dedicated to her ... ) and I do hope she is fearless and shares with us all her inner wishes about life, fashion and being a woman. It was sooo fun with Carine (who personally I hope creates something ravishing ...), but I am certain it will be just as amazing with Emmanuelle!

A New Year, a fresh start, new faces, places and thoughts. It is all so positiviely invigorating. Change is wonderful. Embrace it while you can.

January fashion sketch screensaver

2011-01-06T22:54:00.009+01:00

(click here to download the January screensaver)

There is nothing like a strong winter spell (at least in my part of the world) to make layering everyone's fashion statement. After loosing gloves and hats, without a moment to spare, a lofty, very 70s red wool boucle, was quickly knit into a fluffy hat, ... and that delicious red color, meant it was time to wear the old patched (it's in my book!) ski sweater, that my Mom had knit so very long ago, layer it over a couple of t- shirts (one was not enough,) leggings under overly patched jeans, and finally a pair of hand knit RL argyle socks were stretched on top of the jeans to keep the warmth inside. Feeling wrapped and bundled up, felt cozy and protected on a bitter winter day, especially, when Chanel "Le Vernis Riva" was gleaming on one's nails.2011 -- it sounds like a number that very recently, seemed so far, far, away, into the future, that it was only for the imagination and not for the reality ... but here we are, with a new year in front of us. I do hope that each and every one of you enjoys a fruitful year, and that all your hopes and wishes come true.
Best wishes,
Nancy

Upstairs Downstairs - a sumptuous BBC fashion delight!

2010-12-28T21:34:00.005+01:00

On BBC tonight, in just a few minutes - is the last episode of a beautifully conceived revival of “Upstairs Downstairs.” Set in 1936, in London, it is a story of the lives of an aristocratic family (upstairs) and their household help (downstairs.) I am swooning over the retro clothes (Amy Roberts) AND the interiors (Eve Stewart).
The women’s clothes are simply marvelous. One woman is dressed gorgeously eccentric, reflecting an Eastern influence - you feel the touch of silk velvets, hand woven silk crepes, hand beading and piecework, which is worn unexpectedly with a pair of shocking peacock green stockings popping out of sturdy leather shoes – streaming long scarves or bright coral jewelry – with her pet monkey and brilliant heirloom tiara as props … while another character is all sultry and pale, with chiffons in flesh tones, or shades from the white of the eyes, something you can’t put a finger on, because it is so fragile and beautiful – and all of it contrasting beautifully with dark brunette hair or blood red lipstick. Another woman is dressed with all out glamour - but it’s her coarsely knitted beret worn with an expensive fox cape-let which makes it so real, and a body skimming (in this case serious vintage couture wear) fully beaded evening gown which is the ultimate dress because of the extraordinary way it fits – how it glides over the body and then the beauty of the hair styling, make-up and jewelry.

The men are equally turned out, with immaculately tailored and fitted tuxedos – here as with the women, the beauty is in the perfection, the fit, the way the clothes glide effortlessly, move so easily, it their charm, and that sort of made-to-order feeling is a luxury not seen today.
The household help have beautiful lace detailing, tiny tucked and pleated bibs, pretty, sanguine starched caps and interesting collar shapes. The men wear fitted salmon striped silk waistcoats. Everyone is turned out in tip to toe splendor, from sunrise to sunset, and you glimpse or just feel that no possible detail has been forgotten, and assume that all their undergarments must be of the period as well to get this kind of ease of fit. The shoes are sturdy but fine, with a medium proportioned curved heel (silly me, why did I discard an old pair of Maud Frizon shoes from years ago with just that heel ... .)
The settings are sumptuous, with interesting moldings, colors, dark silk wallpapers, the glow from side table lamps - all setting a stage of beauty. As I scurried around to find out about the stage designer, I discovered that she adopted her colors to best show off the beauty of the leading women. The settings dictate the moods, the manner of walking. There is a revealing interview with the actor Adrian Scarborough who plays the butler, who mentions: "My favourite room was the kitchen pantry. There were shelves and shelves of provisions, boxes and jars from the period along with home-made preserves and chutneys, bottled beetroot and pickled onions.”

Admittedly, the story line moves slowly, but maybe that reflects the reality of the pacing of life in 1936, which would be so different from our lives today. No matter, I am swooning over the series. It celebrates fashion and style as we embrace it today – ageless, and as a tool to bring out the character and emotions of the women, expressing her personality and individuality and beauty. I’m off to see the last episode and to bring some fresh retro beauty into my wardrobe!

(And the photos are from BBC.)

Free November fashion screensaver

2010-10-31T11:52:00.010+01:00

(click here to download this month's fashion calender)

Bohemian

Feathers,

Fur, faux fur,

Plums and winter berries,

Layering, with a personal allure and style all one's own...

Like the freedom of personal expression felt in the 60s, pull out old, new and borrowed from your closet, and layer it on with creative liberty.

The cape was sketched in fur, the thought being - that it was a re-fashioned fur - but when I finished sketching, it had become a cape of feathers. And the little "Juliet" plum velvet vest, is patched with old denim, and found in my book, Denim Revolution. Postcards scanned into photoshop make up the background, one of the ceiling of the "Salotto di Psiche" (Psyche Room) in the Tea Palace in Mantova, Italy -- and the other of music from Troldaugen, Norway, with the phrase "Det Forste motes sodme," roughly, translating as -- the sweet taste of the first meeting. November is lush, filled with art, music, friends, family. All of it swept up in the beauty of the last, lingering, leaves of autumn.

Best wishes to one and all,

for a lovely month,

Nancy

October Fashion screensaver

2010-10-03T17:41:00.002+02:00

(as a fellow blogger, just click here for the October screensaver)

Welcome to October!

It seems that every country (and religion) has their own festival, for make-believe and costume dress-up. I guess it's because we all have a need to pretend, to allow ourselves an opportunity to release and express a fantasy or another side of our character. In the states, it's the holiday of Halloween that everyone goes all out while in Brazil or Switzerland they have Carnival. Whatever your nation, whatever your inclination, be creative and make your own costume, surprise yourself!

Wishing you a lovely month,

Nancy

Halloween fantasy mask

2010-09-28T15:30:00.005+02:00

This magical mask, has been posted before - but I've decided to make it my signature statement for Halloween on both of my blogs. It wonderfully fulfills and stimulates the desire to create something unexpected for any mysterious parties or trick-or-treating as we head into October. Originally, named a Venetian Fantasy Mask, it was created for Denim Revolution, but when we couldn't squeeze it in - it became a freebie. All the how-tos are right here, on craftzine.

Rodarte Spring 2011 return to nature

2010-09-25T14:47:00.010+02:00

Spring 2011 collections started in New York, continued to London, are happening right now in Milan and soon will, en wrap Paris. Via the inventiveness of the Internet, there is much for everyone to see and learn about the collections, the designers, the fashion shows and the behind the scenes creative talents who make these presentations so sumptuously remarkable and influential. Once those "talents" and their techniques were privy to a select group of fashion editors and key store buyers, but today you can whip around the web and find more and more detailed information about who does what, and with a little searching - some how-to photos to support their processes.
Being a romantic, I was totally swooned over by the Mulleavy sisters’ “Rodarte”– chiefly, their accessories – meaning all the accessories including the hair and makeup as well as the shoes and belts.Seventies suburban Californian, the Redwood forest, Big Sur and the rugged Bay area inspiration for the collection has been well documented, but actually, how and why it happened has no significance for me. I was drawn in by the fantasy of feeling closer to nature. The hand carved barrettes, in raw chunky wood become so beautiful with the shapes of butterflies, beetles and branches. They stimulate and intertwine with one’s own colorful associations and imagination of nature with the interpretation and softness of this artist's hand carved image. These feelings are carried over into the hair, make-up, shoes and belts. (click here for Vogue's how-to and scoop.) The golden hues of an imagined golden flecked frost, deep in the forest, added a magical glow to the make-up with their carefully gold-dipped eyelashes, lips and cheeks. The slightly disheveled hair with uncommon streaks of texture feels like a pile of windswept leaves. It all has the hand of craftsmanship combined with a personal voice from the designers which spurs my desire to collect, own, make and find a way to be part of this natural beauty.
And even though I love the clothes, my style would be to wear all their accessories with my own jeans, cashmere and silk, with more streamlined and wrapped dresses, allowing them to glow with the touch of sun and moonlight and no competition and truly become a part of my life, and feel I am in the forest, even though I am in the city. Uhmmm… .

images from http://www.vogue.com/collections/

The Dress I Made

2010-09-04T23:25:00.001+02:00

Dutch product designer Renske Solkesz is documenting on her new blog her personal challenge to create her own wardrobe. She is commited to wear only clothing of her own design that has been created with her own hands. Renske is searching and exploring her clothing needs and desires following a pure, sincere and beautiful design philosophy. She is not creating a utilitarian wardrobe of basics, but a wardrobe of her emotional, aesthetic as well as her practical needs and visions.

There are belts:

Scarves, skirts,

dresses and more.

Personal challenges reveal and surprise. They take commitment, energy and power. Her blog is her way of revealing and sharing her artistic story.

Free September Fashion Wallpaper

2010-08-30T22:10:00.002+02:00

(click here to download this month's calendar

as your screensaver or to print a copy)

Each month, when I sit down to create the calendar, I surprise myself with the final results. Even though I start with a planned thought and direction, regardless the wallpaper takes on a life of its own, developing and evolving as I sketch, until I am content that I have sincerely expressed the mood that I feel about fashion and style - at that moment.
This month I knew I wanted to include a project from my book, since the special sale - of $10.00 (click here! for info) is continuing and so sketching the little Russian caplet project from the book was a natural.

With it's faux-fur collar, and rugged frayed edges it captures a way to re-cycle your old jeans to fend off that first gust of fall with carefree style.

From there it went to pony tails like on MADMEN, and then elegantly manicured finger nails, which were sketched with Serge Luten’s “Sang-Bleu” nail polish –

-- interesting and unique colors on finger nails are turning quickly into the key accessory this fall. All of that is wrapped with thoughts about searching as an artist surrounded with the backdrop of André Masson’s “Leonardo da Vince et Isabella D’Este.” This woman may be in New York, Berlin or London, in the countryside, just somewhere where there is a stimulating mood to search, ponder and try to make sense of life, politics, art, the future and our roots.

Wishing one and all and yours a wonderful September!

Nancy

Barneys New York Denim Competition

2010-08-21T21:17:00.000+02:00

Barneys has offered up a style challenge.

--- Get out your favorite blue jeans, the ones that are truly you ---

and style them up with your most daring, outrageous, runway vision.

Then snap a photo and email it to the Barneys fashion directors.

The prize - 5 x $500 gift certificates !!

and to take part in a NYC/Barneys fashion fun and games competition.

I hope you take the challenge,

release your imagination and enter -

and

hope you win!

Les Khakis de Chanel

2010-08-20T17:12:00.001+02:00

Just wanted to pass the word-

before the limited quantities of Chanel's hottest nail polish disappear in their boutiques in

NYC (with a complimentary manicure ! no less at the Chanel Boutique on Spring Street),

as well as in London and Paris --

Chanel's special nail polish collection of three colors, created for

Vogue's Fashion Night Out - that look like this ...

on nail-polish maven Sophy Robson.

So perfect!

Soft and southern, heirloom style

2010-08-16T18:05:00.000+02:00

Creole Sha explained that my post triggered the idea -- but this design duo gave it their signature, romantic touch - turning a pair of old denim jeans into soft feminine panties.

I adore them and wanted to share them with you.

All their designs on their etsy shop have that feeling of a hot, carefree, late afternoon in the south.

The lazy luxury of hand-dyed family heirlooms … makes the last of the hot summer days feel lost in time and especially cool … .

Thank you Creole Sha for sharing your New Orleans style.

Oohh la la Half Price Book Sale !

2010-08-06T22:23:00.002+02:00

This denim beret is from my sewing book, Denim Revolution. The contrast of softly worn blue denim embellished with ornate gold and velvet trims creates a very cool look. I am delighted that it is right now featured on the craftzine blog right here – jump over and check it out.

And having that feature --- triggered the decision to have a super, back-to-school book sale!

Right now, Denim Revolution is available for:

$9.95 (including free shipping in the USA)

(I also ship internationally, but must charge for the shipping)

I do hope you will buy my book

and that it will inspire you to dream about what you can make,

with all your individual charm and sewing skills

to freshen your wardrobe

with hip new accessories and clothes

just in time for the new fall season.

Isabel Toledo "Court" shoes at Payless

2010-08-06T11:38:00.001+02:00

Over at Colette they are already selling Isabel Toledo's "Court" shoes.

Aren't they divine! All that style for only 35 Euros!

Her husband, Ruben Toledo has always been my numero uno illustrator.

I never tire from browsing through his imaginative, simply sublime, Nordstorm catalogues ... .

August 2010 fashion screensaver is here!

2010-07-31T21:10:00.000+02:00

(as a fellow blogger, just click here to download

and use this month's screensaver or to print yourself a copy)

August always feels like back-to-school mode no matter how many years have passed since one last registered for classes. The stores and magazines are filled with dreamy designer inventions styled and chosen by the editors. They hope that we will take the delicious bite and wrap ourselves in something new - that we will be infused through their creativity with fresh energy and glamour as we prepare to pounce on the new fall challenges. Just the right pièce de résistance is so very invigorating.

In sketching this month's calendar, my thoughts drifted to denim worn simply with white cotton camisoles - the timeless way of dressing. The look that found its way into brush and paint are from my book, Denim Revolution -- the ornate poet's beret with brass buttons and elaborate ribbons and the harlequin trousers with their plush ruby insets and gold braided bows. Fun to make and so cool to wear.

Wishing one and all to enjoy August's gracious, grand finale,

of the sweet summer,

Nancy

Liberty cotton lawn blouse, so pretty to wear and lovely to sew

2010-07-31T21:00:00.001+02:00

Last summer I bought some luscious fabrics from Liberty of London.

And since then, have thought and mused about what to make.

Finally, after waiting way toooo long, I've started to sew.

Using NewLook pattern 6483 as the base,

An easy pattern, with a good fit that can be adopted to personal whims.

What I did:

- To the front pattern, I folded the front dart closed and slashed the neckline to add some soft fullness.

- To the sleeve pattern, the cap was slashed - to add some soft gathers in the cap.

- The seam allowance has been turned back and edge stitched.

- The cuff and hem were hand rolled and hand stitched, because the fabric is so yummy I just wanted to hand sew.

-Two vintage buttons were used at the back neck.

-I used silk thread, the fabric is fine and I think it is a better match with a silk thread.

The print is Miranda, the fabric, Liberty's celebrated cotton lawn.

When you sew this fabric, and of course wear it,

you understand why it is so legendary and has such a devoted loyalty.
All the scraps have been rolled up and stowed away for something special in the future.

so here I am - in my new uniform,

the Liberty blouse, a sweater knit from linen yarn found in Milan

and patched and mended jeans.

The July fashion screensaver

2010-07-18T20:49:00.000+02:00

Finally (...it's only July 18th after all)

the July screensaver has arrived!

(click here to download a copy)

With this denim trimmed vintage slip as the inspiration for the sketch,

I wish one and all a most happy second half of July.

And may you stretch your summer weekend

with an extra dose of lasting, lovely pleasure!
Best wishes,
Nancy

Back from vacation

2010-07-13T23:18:00.000+02:00

One reaches up

and plucks a fig

for breakfast or a midday snack.

Vacationing

in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence

has been so lovely.

A quilted, pieced, morning coat created diamond shaped cotton

2010-06-23T22:32:00.000+02:00

Labeled simply, as "Man's Morning Gown, 1825."

Created from a cloth pieced together from hundreds of diamond shaped cotton fabrics.

It is the ultimate luxury. Simply beautiful!

Displayed as a rarity as part of the costume exhibition currently at the Brooklyn Museum (see below post).

The softly hewed earthy tones feel like a pile of leaves, swept by the wind and dappled in the morning light.

The lift in the sleeve cap, the waist detail, wide cuffs and collar, covered buttons, every inch, softly hand tailored with the same grace and beauty that stitched the cloth together.

It is terribly romantic.

The back view shows the freedom of movement the wearer must have felt.

Fullness comes from the soft gathers at the waist and a bias cut side seam.

It's made by a master, but one wonders if it was commissioned by a professional, or stitched by a family member or by household help....and how glorious the lining must be - lovely it is!

American Women Costume Exhibitions at the MET and in Brooklyn

2010-06-20T21:21:00.000+02:00

Elsa Scaparelli Bug necklace (Brooklyn image)

If you are in New York – you simply can’t miss the pair of costume exhibitions at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum and the Brooklyn Museum. Brilliantly drawn from the Brooklyn’s deep coffers of masterpieces, the exhibitions, celebrating American women, are filled with clothing, accessories and unique novelties from the mid 19th to the late 20th centuries. At the MET the focus is on the desire to embrace a new freer lifestyle that inspired the designers, liberating women, decade by decade. While in Brooklyn, it is motivated by the designers’ creativity and women of stellar style (with budgets to support their whims) who together defined and inspired artistry and change.

Liberty cape, 1900-1920 (MET image)

True to their character, the MET’s exhibition is staged, with showmanship and polish, while the Brooklyn just opens its closets and displays its exquisite wares in their bare bones, and astonishes with the unexpected, the rare and the historical references. When I finished, the MET exhibition, a previous visitor had written in the guest book, “I am proud to be an American Woman.” Proof of the invigorating emotional pleasure derived from the exhibition. I am switching back and forth between in my descriptions between the two exhibitions because they are both, equally so rich and beautiful. The textiles are fragile and certainly will not be displayed again very soon. I can’t encourage you enough to try to squeeze in a visit. “American High Style: Fashioning a National Collection” at the Brooklyn until August 1st, and American Woman: Fashioning a National Identity” at the MET until August 15th.

Paul Poiret's evening dress, 1910 (Brooklyn image)

With these exhibitions, the museums have also launched their new partnership – the transfer of the entire Brooklyn costume archive to the MET, for its care and preservation. Though initially it seems, spurred by the financial limitations of the Brooklyn, the collaborative combination of the Brooklyn’s collection focusing chiefly on the Belle Époque period, Elsa Schiaparelli, Charles James, the American designers in the first half of 20th century, and collections donated by extraordinary American women collectors, such as Millicent Rogers -- with the MET’s European and contemporary clothing – has created a magnificent, powerful collection. The weekend I was there, the Museums jointly held a symposium covering all aspects of their collaboration culminating in the work of these two exhibitions. I attended Jan Glier Reeder’s (Consulting Curator) lecture on the three year documentation process, followed by her gallery talk of the exhibition. Needless to say, I was ecstatic and it was splendid!
One hopes though, that the MET will be able to maintain the unique character of the Brooklyn’s collection. It is as much the sensitive and subtleties as the obvious and well documented reasons, that identity the heritage of the Brooklyn Museum’s pieces and how they came to be so generously donated.

Charles Frederick Worth, late 19th c (Brooklyn image)

Below Elsa Schiaparelli cotton dress, patched with seed package prints and a bold zipper down the back.

I have many more images to share with you!

The June Fashion screensaver

2010-06-02T20:53:00.000+02:00

(click here to download the June screensaver)

Still high on my wonderful visit to NYC.

10th Avenue viewed from the Highline - wow!

The glory and playful happening in Central Park's Sheep's Meadow --

and fashion at the MET.

I felt like a carefree tourist --

and it was fun,

exceptionally so,

as it can only happen in NY, NY.

DIY cropped, denim joggers

2010-05-29T21:12:00.000+02:00

I wanted to let everyone know, that over at my other blog, the new, pure denim one,

I've just posted these cozy, cropped, rather smug, denim joggers.

I can attest that they are perfect

for sailing through the spring and summer.

Re-cycling hats and dresses like Gone With the Wind

2010-05-24T19:29:00.000+02:00

Gone with the Wind is and will always be a most favorite fashion inspiration. Tattered or dripping in gold, either way, the clothes play a supporting role. This week two associations with this movie popped up.

In the last room at the Brooklyn Museum’s exhibition “American High Style,” one finds the hat created by Mr. John in 1939, for Vienne Leigh. With a can-do spirit, this hat was industriously re-fashioned with proud determination and glamorous style.

Perched on top is a rooster feet ornament (barely visible in this photo due to the dimmed lights and no flash.) They have been lightly dusted in gold, blending artfully with a grand swash of gold cord, fringe and green velvet upholstery fabric.

Then in “My Mother’s Clothes” by Jeannette Montgomery Barron, on page 45, the writer explains that her mother, who wore only the finest designer clothes, fashioned the below elegant dress from upholstery fabric.

Suggesting that it was motivated by …perhaps a divorce, Barron connects the curtains of Tara to her mother’s defiant creation of this re-cycled dress as her vehicle to show she can conquer a painful personal war.
I just posted a review here on Barron’s book – which I most highly recommend. Visuals and prose combine high style with human thoughts and feelings about mothers, daughters and life and loss.

Re-cycling, re-fashioning with energy and resolution is tremendous and beautiful.

Denim slipper tutorial and Making time

2010-05-19T04:40:00.000+02:00

The Making time column of the Guardian has featured my denim slipper tutorial. Do skip over, as there are many wonderful and original tutorials for home crafters, with interesting reader comments that spur thought and needle.

Don't be surprised if, like me, after you make those slippers, you get the bug and stitch up a few variations. Above are ones made with denim soles, which I call my shaggy dog ears. I have discovered that once you've cut all the slipper pieces, the project packs small, just right for taking on the road when you're traveling and bored in transit.

Portland, Seattle and NYC

2010-05-15T23:11:00.000+02:00

Dear Friends,

I'm traveling.

First stop Portland, then last night I left Portland (can't help but mention it is one of my most favorite train stations) and am now in Seattle (where the train station is being restored and is bound to rival Portland's) followed later next week by New York. I'm in the middle of my journey.

I carried my camera, laptop, papers, inks, brushes and pencils, planning to post as I go along ... to share the journey. Traveling is so stimulating, as just the thought of writing in mid-May, in all her glory, in favorite spots in these wonderful cities, stirs up such desire to create and imaginatively explore. But, as with many of my dreams and wishes, posting just hasn't been possible. How can I post without scanning in all kinds of little treasures? Imagery is such a vital link to me and my blog.

So that is where I am, with lots and lots to share.

Soon.

But not today.

Best wishes to all, near and far,

Nancy

The May 2010 fashion screensaver

2010-05-02T21:10:00.000+02:00

Just click here to download this month’s screensaver

Here we are, already the second of May, and everyone is sliding into the spirit to thoroughly relax and enjoy the soft end of spring (...especially following April which was up to the dickens all month long.) Around my neighborhood, the azaleas and tulips are fading rapidly with the scent of wisterias and lilacs in full bloom, along with plenty of dandelions and pretty weeds. So with high expectations, of all kinds, and the lovely fresh sweet blooms surrounding all of us in delightful and surprising ways, I drew, painted and pasted together this screensaver. If you're predisposed to print out more than the calendar, here are some of the fun elements that wound their way into the screensaver…

Above is one, from my little Birthday book from Giulio Giannini & Figlio in Florence.

And below, another, from my deck of cards from the Portland Rose Garden.

Jean Repair launched!

2010-04-26T08:01:00.001+02:00

hmm ... a blue rose ...

click here

a surprise

2010-04-23T21:25:00.000+02:00

dear friends,

a fun dream,

that started
as a little seed

is about
to bloom.

I can’t wait to share it with you …

in just a few days.

Wishing you
a very sweet weekend,

See you on Monday,

Nancy

Useful list of hints and thoughts about successfully mending denim

2010-04-10T20:37:00.000+02:00

(The big pile of denim scraps above allows one to pick and choose a favorite shade to patch jeans.)

Mending denim is one of the more satisfying and calming sewing skills. As you work, your mind easily wanders around with thoughts about food (always pleasant) or memories of the day. For me it conjures up the joy of knitting. You gaze with pride at your handiwork. But after all your effort and time, you do want to be assured that your mending will be enjoyed and also durable. Through mending jeans for my own family I have learned a few useful and tried and true steps and techniques. These ideas have been gathered together onto a list and I wanted to share it with you, hoping that it will help you avoid some of my silly mistakes ...

Click here to download the list or check it out.

Your comments or emails with your own hints, struggles or wishes, about mending denim are warmly welcomed.

Alice in Wonderland denim pedal pushers

2010-04-09T22:04:00.001+02:00

This photo, of the “Alice in Wonderland” project in my book, “Denim Revolution,” captures the magical, upside down images of the beloved children’s story. I have always loved everything Alice, and couldn’t resist including a design named in her honor. It also demonstrates how you can take an old pair of jeans, in this case, ones with out-of-date flared legs, and playfully morph them so to speak, like Alice, into something new and fun. These pants after they were cropped, patched and stitched have all the charm and delight of a spring flower garden.

… and then why not make yourself a - Lollipop Power Belt—a waist cincher with the leftover denim. Happy sewing.

Les Tartes de Françoise arrives in nyc

2010-04-07T21:24:00.000+02:00

We all have favorite desserts. When I start musing about cheesecakes, I can taste them with my eyes. New York varieties are thick and rich made with cream cheese and graham crackers, Italian versions created with ricotta cheese feel so homey, while the French versions are altogether another taste and texture, made with fromage blanc. One of my most favorite is “Fromage blanc spéculoos” from Les Tartes de Françoise. No matter how many times I’ve eaten it, at room temperature or slightly warm from the oven, it never fails to surprise and delight with its perfect combination of textures -- the fluffy, light, cheese snuggled into a crunchy crust of crushed spice cookies, the traditional, Belgium spéculoos variety. Only their ovens and chefs know how to bake them, just so. I have just returned from the Brussels, tiny, discreet, Françoise shop, actually the atelier, which as an afterthought happens to kindly also sell retail via word of mouth. When they heard my accent, the staff proudly told me that they have just opened a shop in NYC. So if you live in the neighborhood, and want to fall in love, do scout them out and enjoy a slice of Françoise’s Fromage blanc spéculoos!
And if you don't live in NYC or Brussels, here is a recipe for those special Belgium spice cookies, spéculoos.

A spot of sunshine in Seattle

2010-04-06T18:20:00.001+02:00

In my family, Connie takes the most beautiful pictures. She just sent me this one of little Panda enjoying a wink of sunshine in Seattle. Isn't she glorious? And inspiring a sewing project ... with soft, worn denim of course, ... naturally after a well deserved sleepy morning and a cozy read.

Free April 2010 fashion screensaver

2010-04-04T17:55:00.002+02:00

(fellow bloggers - click here to download the April wallpaper)

Oh my, it is already April 4th and only today I am finally ready to upload the April calendar...I wonder what that means about the month ...certainly, that good things are around the corner! The ideas for this month's wallpaper have been swimming around in my head for awhile. It started with the romantic sound of the Mama's and Papa's song about going to San Fransisco with flowers in your hair. As we enter into the heart of spring, dreaming about San Fransisco and all it's soft lovliness, is where I would love to be, right now.

The above postcard from Romania, dropped on my drawing table, with this little boy, or is it a girl, in her decorative hat, covered in grass, beads and flowers, and equally decorative jumper. The image didn't end up in the wallpaper, but I wanted to share it with you, as it was an inspiration.

Finally, a couple images have been scanned and inserted into the painting from my set of playing cards, from one of my favorite spots, the Portland Rose Gardens. It is an easy walk or bike ride from my childhood home, and full of my favorite spots, smells of the good earth, a seemingly endless variety of blooming roses, and my sweet memories. Right now I'm remembering the day my younger brother and I visited, not so long ago, on a gentle April day, when he bought me this deck of cards.

Yves Saint Laurent exhibition at the Petit Palais in Paris

2010-03-24T19:55:00.001+01:00

IF you are in Paris and love fashion then don’t miss the Yves Saint Laurent retrospective at the Petit Palais. Open until August 29th I was lucky to see it last week and am filled with lots of musings about his contribution to fashion and more.

At the most luxurious level of dressmaking - the “Haute Couture” YSL created clothes that were pure perfection in their construction, perfectly sublime in their proportion, ravishingly dazzling in their pure color and imaginative in the mix of color and texture. But, beyond all of that, his clothes had another dimension altogether, a cause célèbre for such a tribute. Each season he broke down stereotypes and barriers, setting women more free, empowering them with the clothes and style to boldly express their new freedom. YSL was a visionary artist who recognized the changing of the guard and had an active hand in ushering in a new freedom that helped shape women’s history. When YSL opened a new collection, women and journalists lined up to devour and embrace what he sent down the runway. He was king – he was an initiator, he was a visionary artist – he was the leader of the pack.

Today much of what he achieved is taken for granted, but forty-fifty years ago, when he had his first collections, it shocked and rocked the establishment. He understood the path to the future even though the general public was not always receptive, and reassured with interviews, magazine and television ads to explain his collections.

His followers, many legendary leaders in their respective fields, from actresses, to writers, artists, models, socialites or politicians, were like a devoted cult. This group of women, gathered from all avenues, lived colorful and exciting lives, celebrated for their thoughts, travels and actions. YSL understood their wishes and dreams and created clothes that naturally wove together their new lifestyles. His runways were for real people, his clients, they were not theatrical creations for media. Customarily YSL showed last in Paris, and his was the final word. No one touched him.

As much as we crave today’s fashion and adore the leading designers, it is fundamentally different from YSL’s collections. Today, each season is filled with more spectacular handbags, shoes, jeans, jewelry than the season before – it’s focused on the pièce de résistance. And though it is providing a wonderful thrill in our lives, the designers are not influencing history, not providing a new concept of clothing that influences history. To feel fashion’s footprint on society in the 21st century, one would need to look to the influence from ecological priorities, practical needs or the streets as opposed to fashion shows.

With my head full of all these thoughts I entered the Petit Palais. My expectations were high. Yet, as anxious as I was to see the exhibition, the grand entrance of the Palais is breathtaking, and I, like everyone else, stopped in my tracks, lingered, wandered around, and enjoyed the marvels of the entrance and its spacious proportions prior to entering the exhibition.

The exhibition, divided into 15 rooms, begins with the Dior years “Les Années Dior”. As one of Christian Dior’s assistants in 1958, YSL, at 21 years old, unexpected became his successor achieving immediate, critical success. Seven outfits are included in the exhibition from this period and they took me by surprise because they so encapsulate the dreams for 2010 and beyond. What I thought would have been old lady and boring was instead exquisite and pure. The dresses, suits, colors, textures, are soft, luminous, chic and classy. The first outfit is a silk faille crème tunic adorned with an oversized, navy, organza rose at the neck. It is layered over a slim navy skirt. Next to it is a grey flannel “Trapeze” day dress with a large pirouette collar and three quarter sleeves. The trapeze was one of the remarkable shapes that he invented. Even on the mannequin you feel the soft movement. Two evening dresses with fitted bodices opening into full skirted dirndls are again, light, soft and breezy, with the fullness achieved by delicate bias tape sewn around the underskirt hem. Couturier details such as scattered handmade flowers and tucks add romantic gracefulness. A day outfit was topped with a gently sculptured jacket, above wrist length sleeves, a Parda-ish curved shape in black crocodile verni, bordered in black mink and layered over a boucle brown slim skirt. It looked as modern and coveted today as it must have 50 years ago. This room summarized the key YSL artistry - taste, style, timelessness, flowers, pure, inventive, fresh, breezy, modern proportions. Can I say more, I loved the simplicity and perfection.

Next I wondered into “Studio Réel/Studio Mental” where his studio had been re-created. This was the “control center”, his world, where he sketched, fit and worked out his creations. On his actual desk, a simple table top on a pair of harnesses, were the often photographed, very personal collection of objects – a red glass heart, silver and bronze objects, a thick pad of note paper stamped YSL, his drawing pencils, colored pencils and drawing papers. A stack of books – Hollywood, Mondrian, Tunisia … lay on the left of his desk. Behind him more books lined shelves and fabric swatches, sketches, mementos and art were tacked on the wall. He didn’t travel, his ideas were imaginary, inspired by books, on artists, history and places. He derived inspiration from all these objects on hand, in his studio, as well as his extensive art collection.

Off the “studio” with music by Franck playing in the background, a small, dark room is filled with dresses from the “Bal de Proust.” Orchestrated by the dramatic hostess Marie Helene de Rothschild in 1971, it was a legendary party of fantasy and glamour. I gasped when I realized that the clothes displayed were the one’s YSL had specially created for Jane Birkin, Hélène Rochas, Nan Kempner and of course Rothschild …. to think, YSL, carte blanche, the imagination. Overdose.

In 1962 YSL opened his own couture house, and this is where the revolution begins. Room 4 – “La Révolution des Genres” is opened with the simple, double-breasted navy blue pea jacket, T-shirt and white pants, flat shoes that shook the fashion world. He put women in pants. And there is the famous photograph of Verushka (above) looking savage in his Safari tunic and shorts. He put women in pants, in every combination imaginable. Lined in the little gold chairs of the couture shows on the left side are suits with skirts and on the right pantsuits. I just admit, that it was the one room where there was nothing to see – it just felt so ordinary – conventional. The films that accompanied it were interesting, as they explained the power behind the pant revolution – and the re-shaping of society but the display missed the mark.

The next room, “YSL et Les Femmes” has about a dozen outfits, each for one of his legendary patrons, from Paloma Picasso to the resistance fighter, Francoise Giroud, from his colleague, Elsa Schiaparelli to Diana Vreeland and Lauren Bacall. The clothes draw a circle around his devoted patronage, their varied lifestyles and how he understood and embraced them.

Then, in Room 6, “Catherine Deneuve, Une Rencontre” she opens her closet. This legendary French actress, whom he dressed in film, and beyond, reveals the contents of her closet, the reds, blacks, jewelry, shoes, all of it - the centerpiece, the little black robe with white satin color and cuffs from the film “Belle de jour.” Her intrinsically French style is ravishing and conceived by YSL.

YSL was the first designer to launch perfume with a provocative advertising campaign, photos, videos of songs, and gigantic blow-ups of his sketches are found in rooms 7 and the rotunda.

Room 9, is one of my personal favorites, “Eté 1971, Le Scandale de la Collection 40.” Inspired by fashion from the 40s, the reviews, pasted on the walls were devastating, condemning the collection as scandalously trying to glamorize the clothing from WWII. The collection did not sell, but it clearly defines how we dress today. The soft crepe-de-chine printed dresses mixed with novelty, oversized shoes and tailored jackets, the mix of pretty, colorful, retro, shaped, feminine or masculine – expresses a charming individuality.

Everywhere were his expressions and ideas (above) his New Year's posters, film, photos and information surrounding the various eras.

“Les Voyages Imaginaires” takes you to Spain, Russia, China, Japan and beyond. I’ve rambled on and on, and could write pages about these clothes, but one must see them. They are his imaginary conceptions of the romantic folkloric influences of these cultures. Rich, fantasy worlds that capture the magic through the colors, textures, silhouettes, embellishments and accessories associated with the country. All of it has been created by fine craftsmen and women. One wants all those different pants, the ethnic shapes, the luxurious breath of fabric. YSL was known to say that the Russian collection was his best ever. (I happen to have Vogue patterns from this collection. They require yards of material and I have never made anything. Vogue patterns used to be such a fashion resource.)

This is followed by “Dialogue avec L’Art.” Art by Vincent Van Gogh is breathtaking, intricately beaded on a jacket, Piet Mondrian (above) where block shapes are cut into wool jersey sheaths, and bronze metalized leather breast plates by Claude Lalanne are worn with floaty navy mousseline dresses and capes. It simply goes on and on and would take pages to describe. African crafts are re-created into evening mini dresses, and a knitted wool white dress, with white silk ribbons from 1965 is another enchanting idea of feminity.

Before Madonna or Lady Gaga he was wrapping women in bondage in bold, intricate, artistic ways that was thrilling. He was giving them dramatic ways to surprise and delight and feel beautiful.

The final room, which could have been an exhibition on its own, is “Le Dernier Bal.” One sees hundreds of ways to dress for the evening. From pure simplicity to outrageous pattern and color - every piece- becomes a jewel on its own. Then, lined floor to ceiling, 3 or 4 rows high, along the back wall, are “Le Smoking” his black pantsuit for a woman, for evening, immaculately tailored, so it falls on the body impeccably. Sometimes it is shaped as a jumpsuit, other times with shorts. It is shown with a black lace bra or a white blouse, each unique and stylish.

Finally the “Le Choc des Couleurs” where the walls are lined with his carefully clipped pages upon pages of fabrics swatches, arranged in vibrant colors and textures, unique shades of blue, green, red, yellow, bringing all the senses to feelings of nature, birds of paradise, somewhere between life and dreams. In between the panels of fabrics the floating, mousseline draped evening dresses from his final collection of 2002. They are pure, exceptional for their simplicity.

The exhibition ends with a film from this farewell show. You glimpse the models wearing many of the clothes one has just seen in the exhibition. They all come to life, taking on another character, with soft fluid movements, and one realizes that actually, in the end, the point was how they move, sweep, prance and come to life. The models communicate the pleasure of wearing the clothes and it’s very personal.

Like how Andy Warhol (above) used the medium of screen printing to express his statements about society, YSL used women’s clothing as his means to express and reflect on society.

Above - my ticket stub. Below - a sculpture off the main corridor.

And finally, the Eiffel Tower at night as one bids farewell to Paris.

I have certainly rambled on and on, and I only hope it sparks your interest, as it certainly did mine. À bientôt.

The Delicious Miss Dahl

2010-03-23T23:42:00.001+01:00

Just watched the first episode of The Delicious Miss Dahl” on BBC 2. Ohh, it is so yummy. From her claim that starting your day with an Arnold Bennet omlette will ensure a wonderful day, to self indulgent treats, "My Perfect Dinner," martinis, all are easy, charming and healthy-ish. The format is personal, with delightful illustrations, hand scribbled text, recipe cards, her lovely trenchcoats, black dresses, sweaters, and images of home, hearth, food, natural flower arrangements and ... foods. Of course, immediately after watching, ... I speed into the kitchen to whip up some treats. Sophie Dahl is having fun and sharing her secrets - click here for the recipes - but the visuals are lost, you do need to watch the story develop, so try to catch the next episodes, indulge yourself and enjoy every bite.

Alice at Ladurée Royale

2010-03-14T20:16:00.000+01:00

No matter how many times I pass by Ladurée on Rue Royal in Paris, like an enchanting magnet, it never fails to draw me inside by the window displays, the colors and the message of favors. Unfortunately it is forever packed with like minded, so you must have a lot of time and patience (of which I had neither this trip.)
Regardless the windows are instilled in my mind. They were filled with larger than life-sized painted wooden cut-outs of Alice. At her feet was a music box, lined with a black and white checkerboard. The illustration is by Kera Till who catches Ladurée's unique and whimsical appeal so perfectly. Snuggled inside the music box are the real goodies, moist, crisp, melting, apple maccaroons - sublime - those I did taste the night before (along with the pistachio and chocolate ones) and can attest they are perfect!

Apart from the shop, their teahouse is equally inviting. Their teas, coffees, menu is unique and delicious. For this reason alone, it attracts all kinds of people let along ones like me who would wonder in just for the romantic decoration, the pretty napkins, silver tea pots and more. An intrisically Parisian landmark. Rue Royal is my favorite Ladurée. Don't miss it when you are in Paris.

The Chanel Tweed Fabrics - Linton Tweeds

2010-03-07T15:21:00.029+01:00

Nothing is nicer than sewing a Chanel suit with the same material that Coco used. The British mill, Linton Tweeds, located near the Scottish border in the English Lake District is where Coco went for her legendary fabrics … so why shouldn’t you! The quality, patterns and colors are luxuriously beautiful. I contacted them and they sent me the above swatches - plus more - with their not too high - price list. The materials catch light and have a soft handfeel unique to the mill. If you start to unravel a swatch you end up counting a dozen different yarns, mixed and twisted and colored in all kinds of unique ways. The ability to weave this broad variety of textures is what makes Linton so valuable, and one really wants to support such a mill and the timeconsuming, individual products that they create. Visit their website to follow how the fabric is woven, washed, inspected and read about their history. Below is a zoomed in view of my stash of swatches. One of the plaids even has sequins woven into the fabric.

Here is a link to a sew-a-long blog just for the Chanel suit . (Isn’t it a wonderful way to use the internet to advantage for a most hand-crafted, personal project?) And even if you're not quite up to sew yourself a suit – what about a newsboy cap or a beret, or some flower brooches ... in a Chanel tweed?

Pretty blue and white cotton dress

2010-03-04T11:02:00.001+01:00

I've had this photo for ages and wanted to share it. It's from an exhibition in London at the V&A. The pretty silhouette (there was no designer noted for the dress) and airy cotton lawn is dreamy and lovely like the clothes in MAD MEN. I'm thinking of making it out of two different Liberty prints - I have just enough of one print for the top and the other for the skirt and the bow ... .

March Fashion Wallpaper

2010-02-28T20:53:00.002+01:00

(Click here to download or print out the March wallpaper.)

Wishing everyone a good month.

My Parson's pattern making workbook - two sleeves patterns

2010-02-25T22:16:00.000+01:00

After reading Wendy's new book on Dresses, and spying all those soft and lovely sleeves in the New York Fall 2010 collections, I was motivated to pull out my old workbooks from my pattern making courses at Parsons The New School for Design. We had a wonderful, old world teacher, and I wish I could remember her name, as I would love to mention it here, but ... if it comes to me, I will mention it in a later post.

In addition to the main task - learning to make full sized patterns - every student also created their own workbook with miniature pattern making notes and tissue paper patterns. In my workbook, there is a little envelope of my slopers (basic patterns) on the heavier weight, tagboard paper, with all the same markings noted on the full-sized versions. We used these slopers to create the little tissue paper patterns that are glued to the two pages I've scanned into this post. (Yes, those are not drawings but tiny tissue patterns.) They look adorable, like little doll patterns.

My notes are unedited, written in ink, not very neatly, very naively, but regardless -- here they are and two different ways you can create beautiful, soft sleeves.Click here to upload pdf file of scans.

Tutorial for mending jeans with designer style - technique # 4

2010-02-23T15:52:00.014+01:00

Awhile ago, White Oak Cone Denim gave me a small book about an historic collection of denim clothing found in an abandoned shack near Greensboro, North Carolina. The images and information that denim historians have gathered about this clothing helped me to understand from another angle, and more deeply, an era of American history. The clothing, dating from the 1930s, tell the story of a family, living in poverty, working as tobacco sharecroppers. The clothing has been beautifully repaired and mended, by one person. Overalls have been cut into pants, newer denim has patched old, worn holes and resourceful combinations of patches and hand stitching have created an unintentional but beautiful, folkloric patchwork. Above is a scan of a pair of children's overalls. I have seen actual samples, and they are powerful, for the life that they document and also the thoughts and images they bring to mind of this homemaker, who worked to maintain the family's clothing with respect and durability.

As some of you may already know, I am writing a series of articles on mending, repairing and patching jeans with designer style. Fashion is driven by many different events or ideas, and when something is compelling, like this collection of denim clothing, it bound to have a strong influence.

The technique that I have written up for this particular post is inspired by this collection of historic clothing. With respect to this nameless family, I have tried to capture their spirit of resourcefulness and craft, and named the technique "Sharecroppers" patches.
Above is a photo of my final jeans. Patches are put where the denim was totally worn and ripped and where it needed to be re-enforced. Stitches, thread and denim scraps were chosen for how natural, practical or beautiful they looked.

Part of the goal was to make the inside as beautiful as the outside. This would make the jeans more durable, preventing the necessity of repeated repairs. Below is a photo of the finished inside of one of the legs.

Below is a photo of overalls from Ralph Lauren's spring 2010 collection that wonderfully capture the spirit.
For the entire tutorial on the "Sharecroppers patches" click here.

Shaun White's denim pants

2010-02-20T20:26:00.001+01:00

The Winter Olympics is thrilling, passionate and breathtaking. These brilliant athletes share their world and dreams with us for two weeks. Their compelling, state of the art equipment and clothing, is catching every one's eye and certainly headed toward influencing design products far beyond Vancouver, in all kinds of ways. Who didn't notice gold medal snowboarder Shaun White's baggy - GORE-TEX pants. Waterproof, light, and fashionable like a young rebel, their too large, mended and ragged denim look, is hip like the snowboarding competition for which they've been designed to enhance the athlete's performance. But isn't it a hoot that they look like "mom" was up the night before, hand patching his favorite pants, his lucky gear, for his big day! I guess tradition meets state-of-art ... if you have a pair of hand-me-down jeans, that you want to patch up, try the cat and mouse patch, that you can click - here .

Built by Wendy Dresses review

2010-02-19T23:21:00.006+01:00

I have wondered about these SEW U books, and am delighted to finally have one of my own, the newest volume “Built by Wendy Dresses: The SEW U Guide to Making a Girl’s Best Frock.” It is a wonderful book and Wendy is a terrific teacher. She speaks your language, shares her enthusiasm and explains everything you need to know to create beautiful dresses.

The book covers all the basics, from information about the tools and silhouettes; narrowing down your best fit; pattern making; about two dozen separate dress projects; plus an envelope with three, sized, dress patterns. Even though there is a lot of material, for me, the chief purpose for a sewer to acquire this book is to teach a beginner to an intermediate level sewer, how to work with dress patterns, how to alter them to achieve their designer vision and how to adjust them for a better fit. This is a great skill for any sewer or anyone who loves fashion. It broadens your sewing ability and also your confidence to freely change and improve your clothing or your sewing projects.

Once you understand and acquire pattern making skills for dresses, you can utilize those techniques for anything from children’s clothing to an extra, extra large sized dress. In other words, the technique will go well beyond the three dress patterns that she has included in the back of the book.

If you are a beginner don’t be intimidated, you will learn the techniques, just follow her clear, logical steps, one by one, and by the second project you will be on a roll.

The spiral-bound book, is the kind of workbook, which invites the reader to jot useful notes, slip in a sketch or magazine photo of a dress you want to make, or staple a swatch of fabric to another page. Like a favorite cookbook, as you use it, it becomes your very own journal and work in progress documenting past, current and future sewing projects.

I also, very much respect, that she has included three, dress patterns in the book. Trust her patterns. They are her dress slopers (basic patterns) her starting point for all kinds of dresses developed from almost two decades of producing dresses that women choose to wear and buy. They are proven territory and will not only shortcut your project - since it is not always necessary to build a pattern from scratch - but also will insure a better fit, and a more elegant proportion.

Wendy spends quite a long time explaining the importance of good fit. Fit is a reason on it’s own to sew and make your own patterns, instead of buying off the rack. A well fitted dress feels comfortable, and with comfort comes a glow that spreads and is communicated to others. She writes about all the various considerations and how to assess your size. I particularly like that she mentions that “it’s not uncommon for women to wear one size on top and another on the bottom.” In other words use your own common sense, there are no rules, follow your body and personal preferences.

On the downside, she really skimmed on fabric selection. Your fabric choice, as much as the fit and the design, can make or break a dress. The drape and look of a fabric differ greatly within each category, for example tweeds – they come in so many different weights, textures and qualities. With that in mind, I would advise one to examine their own wardrobe carefully, or dresses in shops, to learn the differences between the hand feel, the drape, the care (hand washable or dry clean only), and the durability, before selecting the fabric. Develop your knowledge about fabrics, colors and patterns. Always buy the best quality fabric you can find and budget for, as it makes sewing a pleasure and will make the dress more special, more lasting, and more worthy of your work.

Even though it is not a book for experienced pattern makers, it is shock full of her valuable tips and advice (“…think twice, cut once.”), and her voice is fun, so you still may enjoy having it as part of your sewing library. Wendy’s book is fun and easy, and I highly recommend it.

ohh, and one more favorite, Ralph Lauren

2010-02-19T14:53:00.005+01:00

Love RL's collection. The soft, short, circular, sleeved blouse, layered over a black, lacey (must be silk) sweater, and all those yummy classic fall wool, shoes and shapes. For home sewers, those sleeves are super fun to draft yourself and sew up. And what an inspiration, from the best of the New York runways, to start layering one's wardrobe to complement one's lifestyle. London's next. Photo from NYMag

Jacob and Rodarte and their dreamy looks for fall

2010-02-18T20:20:00.008+01:00

The New York Fall 2010 collections are wrapping up and here are my personal favorites. From the top, I adore the new, longer, softer skirt silhouettes from Marc Jacobs. In this photo he has layered it under a high waisted English riding coat. These clothes celebrate beautiful materials. Suddenly, what is more luxurious than the feel of a swirl of fabric that has been finely tailored. His stockings, which must be silk, the bags and the no-color colors all capture the childlike dreamy spirit of his theme music for the collection "Somewhere Over the Rainbow."

Then there is Rodarte, and who doesn't love the work of these sisters and how they re-invent fashion. Again, like Jacobs, they showed longer skirts, or if they were shorter, it's feels more like the effects from layering, always soft, with wispy layers, in their unconventional vision. The puff sleeved dresses, silky knee high stockings, ties wrapped around the ankles, pretty gloves, everything is cloudy, mysterious and feminine.

photos from NYMag.com

Make yourself a pair of Valentine earrings

2010-02-13T16:34:00.009+01:00

What is more lovely than fresh flowers as an expression of love? I’m spotting people all over the city carrying single roses or lovely bunches of pink and red flowers. It is those tempting, pretty, flowers, that seem to be everywhere, that have inspired me to make these golden, pink and red earrings. Only you will know that they are only a slip of paper, as don't you think that they look much more valuable and important? If you want to make yourself a pair, below is the artwork -

and for the entire, very easy, for all abilities, tutorial - click here. Wishing you a Happy Valentine's Day.

Hommage à Alexander McQueen

2010-02-11T19:40:00.007+01:00

Alexander McQueen, the legendary force behind fashion as we know it today, a master tailor, creative genius and inspiration and friend to so many in the fashion world, has passed away today. Fashion was his canvas, but actually, it didn't matter, his influence was far beyond that medium. His artistry filtered through our lives on all kinds of levels. He was a true innovator. He will be so very greatly missed.Daphne Guinness wearing McQueen in all it's glory and below, Lady Gaga,

... dancing in McQueen's spectacular boots in her "Bad Romance" video, only a few of endless images of women who were captivated by his art.

Mending and patching jeans - the "soho-boho" patch

2010-02-07T16:24:00.007+01:00

click here to download tutorial

Welcome to chapter no. 3 and my project to write a series of articles about mending and repairing jeans. When mending jeans, different techniques come into play from mending other kinds of slacks. One needs to respect the special qualities of the fabric as well as understand the individual style of the wearer. There are many ways to incorporate these elements when you patch and mend. In chapter 3, you will find a technique for hard worn jeans, that need durable patches to endure continued hard wear. It’s been named “Soho-Hobo” patches, for how it is inspired by the look of the youthful rebel, the poor but resourceful artists, who founded Soho in the 60s in New York. It's a cool one.

February's heartfelt wallpaper sketch

2010-01-31T22:06:00.005+01:00

click here to download this month's wallpaper calendar

Maybe, because I have always adored hearts, especially deep, rich, handmade chocolates that are sunk into lush red velvet heart shaped boxes, and all the other tempting things associated with Valentine’s Day – that this month’s calendar had to reflect all of it and more. I started painting and drawing red, violet and pink hearts with this heavenly, real gold, solid gold painted background, like a golden heart … and from there the sketch developed. How many hearts can you find in the sketch? Wishing you a most love-ly month of February!

Need help to fix my blog feed

2010-01-31T14:21:00.001+01:00

Once again I am receiving emails from fellow bloggers that they are not able to follow my blog. It is so discouraging to hear this, since my reason to post is my wish that they will inspire or be enjoyed by this special community of bloggers whom I enjoy, and who inspire me!

I do know that my blog fee settings are sent to “full.”

If anyone can help me to technically overcome this problem, with pleasure I will send you a great big hand sketched thank you note!! With many thanks in advance.

Paris Couture Spring 2010 Madness

2010-01-29T22:59:00.006+01:00

Dior Couture, Spring 2010

above photo from Chanel is from style rookie, who, don't you think, was Karl's muse ...

While I have been at home hemming my jeans, some people have been thrown into the twilight zone of the Paris Couture fashion fantasies, for the Spring 2010 shows. As I gaze through the images, while mending my jeans, I do feel a bit like Cinderella ... I mean, after all, we are on opposite sides of the moon and the stars, at this moment, as I'm trying to be resourceful and others are inventing magic and looks destined for fantasies. But how can one not love all the creativity and madness. Chanel's silver glitter is everywhere, stockings, nails, shoes and jewerly - silver highlights in the hair, the way it's been teased into a power shape accented with flowers and bows, is so 2010 and looking forward. Thank you Chanel!
Dior is also on the other side of the stars. The sumptuous flowers and fabrics drapped all over the runway, with the overly elaborate taffetas, make-up, hats and clothes, are simply out of this world literally. We must pause, enjoy the magic, the imagination, and the world of never never land...... realizing, that what looks outrageous at this moment, as fashion goes, is going to be on everyone tomorrow - just watch it happen! Hmm, can't wait for Spring, for the piles of flowers and sumptuous clothing. Photos from French Vogue, The Vine, Style Rookie and the Chanel site.

How to hem jeans with designer style

2010-01-26T10:51:00.005+01:00

click here for tutorial

Even though hemming jeans is one of the most common clothing alterations, surprisingly, it is rarely sewn correctly (and when it’s wrong it’s truly glaring, like a billboard wrapped around your ankles.) The widespread mistake is to just fold the excess length back and stitch it like any other pants. This is in conflict with the stitching and washed details on the cuff that need to be seen and not hidden.
When jeans need to be shortened the hem should be durable, invisible and not change the style or look of the jeans. The hemming technique in this tutorial is designed especially for denim. I love to give names to techniques and this is named "For Your Eyes Only" due to how it blends so seamlessly, that only the seamstress knows it’s there. As you will discover, it is simple and easy to do, or, if you’re not a seamstress, then to explain, to the person who will shorten your jeans. Repairing jeans is a pleasure because the material sews beautifully and the wearer is so appreciative.
Click here to download or print the tutorial.

A handknitted vintage cardigan

2010-01-23T14:02:00.004+01:00

A while ago I knit this sweater from a vintage pattern I found in my mother’s fabulous stash of patterns. It’s made from Rowan’s (now discontinued,) “Lurex Shimmer.” The yarn has a soft, lovely hand feel, and the copper color is particularly pretty. Lately I am wearing it with old, worn jeans and am searching for the pattern as I want to knit it again, this time in a super fine, pale pink, merino wool.
My mom, by the way, is an incredible knitter. I have many sweaters, ski sweaters, vests, hats, and various pullovers, that she has made for me over the years. Each stitch is beautifully, evenly formed with great skill. One of my favorite things to do is to browse through her pile of knitting patterns and books, of which she has gathered a personal and richly diverse collection. I know each one by heart, and they all have associations and memories. It’s similar to searching through a button box, and not unlike the intimate pleasure, of being with one’s own memories when one looks through a family photo album. Now, back to searching for that misplaced cardigan pattern!

Sweet,heart shaped sunglasses

2010-01-21T22:07:00.010+01:00

10 Corso Como is not unlike a candy shop for adults. They imagine, invent, produce and select the most wonderful things ... such as these red, heart shaped sunglasses. Visit their website to discover their music, prints, designs, scents and beauty products as well as their tiny hotel, cafe and more. As I browsed around, I found these flowers, a one-of-a-kind, handmade bouquet a playful keepsake of their logo (to be found also on their tissue wrapping paper, which is too cool to be tossed.) Such a tangle of wire stems and bold blossoms - aren't they beautiful! 10 Corso Como is a whole world, situated around a lovely enclosed garden, in the heart of Milan.

Inspiring Valentine's ideas

2010-01-19T21:23:00.008+01:00

The above "chunky cutting board made from French oak" seems like a special way to enjoy fresh bread on Valentine's Day and all year long ... from MAGAZYN, in Antwerp.In "Liberty's" newsletter, among other wonders, are cake decorating classes especially for Valentine's Day with Mich Turner of the Little Venice Cake Company. I hope you enjoy all the delicious, lovely and imaginative images, and maybe, someone will make it to the workshop!

Links for giving aid to Haiti

2010-01-16T23:19:00.008+01:00

New York Times online has compiled a thorough list of links and information.
Google has also created a page with many links to aid organizations and information on how to SMS a donation (only within the U.S.):
SMS text “HAITI” to 90999 to donate $10 to Red Cross relief efforts
SMS text “YELE” to 501501 to Donate $5 to Yele Haiti’s Earthquake Relief efforts
SMS text "GIVE10" to 20222 to donate $10 to Direct Relief

Velvet slipper tutorial

2010-01-08T17:46:00.001+01:00

If you want to make yourself a dreamy pair of slippers, click here for my tutorial posted on my most favorite crafting blog - craftzine. Craftzine has formatted the instructions with plenty of sketches, into an easy to use, nice to keep and to re-use or pass to a friend, pdf file. And once you make a pair in velvet -- you may start to make more ... ...such as the ones above made with a Liberty cabbage rose print, re-cycled denim soles and antique lace and fringe trims ... and when you finish, just put your feet up and gaze at your lovely handywork. Ahh, all is a day's work.

Desigual - why not disguise your jeans ...

2010-01-05T20:28:00.005+01:00

For a wonderful way to re-think how you may recycle, patch, decorate or re-shape altogether your cast-off jeans, click this link which will take you to Desigual, the rebellious, streetwise Spanish clothier.

January 2010 fashion screensaver

2010-01-03T16:50:00.005+01:00

Welcome to 2010 with the January 2010 calendar!

Click here to download and print a copy or use it as your screensaver.

It's already the 3rd of January - and I am filled with the giddy enthusiasm of entering a new decade. I'm already madly in love with 2010. The new inventions and goals of the last decade seem to have magically evolved into the wiser, better and more clear hopes of the future.

Today the ground is covered in fresh snow, so I've sketched the way the world looks -everyone bundling up, layers upon bulky layers, in their own individual way, to enclose themselves with the feelings of winter, the freshness of the air, surrounded by the faintest glow lingering from the fireworks that rang in the year only hours ago.

Cheers to all and one in twenty-ten!

A free December screensaver

2009-11-29T00:35:00.005+01:00

Every month I sketch a screensaver.

As a fellow blogger, you are welcome to upload it.
Wishing you a wonderful December, may you enjoy and discover natural beauty wherever it may fall. Let the grand finale of 2009 be filled with dreams, hopes, winter bliss and more!

Shower Bonnets made from retro scarves or lace

2009-11-18T17:54:00.013+01:00

"California Dreaming" is made from a retro scarf and some gingham ribbons.

Named "Coco" this version is made with white lace, layered on top of plastic lime plastic lining, and finished with pleated and polka dotted ribbons, black jet and crystal buttons.

It all started with a family heirloom, a fun, souvenir scarf printed with charming scenic spots in California. Even though it was colorful and intriguing, it was never worn because it is synthetic. Now it has been recycled into my every-morning-most-favorite-shower-cap named "California Dreaming" and as I write this post, is hanging on a peg in the bathroom! If you want to make one yourself, here are the easy steps. It only takes about an hour from start to finish.

Materials:

1 scarf (synthetic is best because the water just splashes off)

1 plastic shopping bag (this will be your waterproof lining)

1 yard of 1" wide, synthetic, turquoise ribbon

1 yard of 1" wide synthetic yellow ribbon

1 funky retro button

1 yard ¼" wide elastic

Red thread or another color that contrasts your scarf print

Your sewing basket and a sewing machine

How to do it:

-Cut a 20" diameter circle, out of the scarf and out of the plastic shopping bag.

-Pin the 2 circles together and stitch ½" from the edge, all around the perimeter.

-Sew the turquoise gingham ribbon around the perimeter with a zigzag stitch.
-Sew the yellow gingham ribbon, with a double row of zigzag stitches ½" apart, leaving an opening to slide the elastic through. And like in the photos, the turquoise ribbons in fluttering below the yellow ribbon.

-Attach a safety pin to your elastic; slip it through the opening, sliding it along, until you come out at the other end. Holding the elastic ends together, adjust the ease to fit your head, and then cut off excess and stitch elastic ends together securely.

-Form a loop from the turquoise ribbon (this is to hang your shower cap on a peg.)

-Pin the loop on top of the join point of your ribbon trims (so it hides the join.) Sew securely in place with a button. (My turquoise ribbon is a simple seam binding, pressed open, left with raw edges. )

Maharaja at the V&A

2009-11-14T19:12:00.010+01:00

above, is an image of a Turban ornament, probably Murshidabad, 1730-55

gold, diamonds, rubies, emerabls, sapphire, pearl

The V&A has mounted a splendid exhibition, "Maharaja -The Splendour of India's Royal Courts." It is bound to inspire you to adorn yourself or your home with a dazzling array of everything that lushly twinkles or drips in gold, with exquiste and beautiful taste. Suzy Menkes (click here) shares every succulent detail. If you can make it to London, the fury that surrounds these shows adds to the fun, as the students sketching away and the outfits of the visitors are always imaginative. Above, is the "Procession of Ram Singh II of Kota," a watercolor painting from about 1850. Just click here, to discover extraordinary detail and beauty of this procession and the objects on display. as well as a competition for a trip to India! Hope you win! Or at least hope you enjoy the fun of sinking into the lap of overwhelming luxury and learning about another historical cultural and fashion influence on another part of the globe.

Charming flea market journal

2009-11-05T17:02:00.000+01:00

I love and collect paper, in all sorts of configurations, especially as journals - from the most elementary newsprint ones that dazzle with their simplicity - to ones with poetry written around the edges or beautifully edged with gold leaf. Usually a few pages are filled with thoughts and sketches, sometimes they are never touched, and others get filled to overflowing. This one, spotted in a flea market is sooo wonderful sooo I wanted to share.

Spider webs and blasts of color

2009-11-05T15:59:00.008+01:00

Ruben Toledo, is a masterful fashion artist, sketching ladies with a wispy light elegance that transcends any fashion clique, lightly lifting you into his naturally elegant world. Each drawing seems to have a whole world and event supporting the moment and one's imagination just drifts and wanders around as you follow his lead. A favorite of mine his "Fashionmachine." Which lady, which silhouette most captures your style?!? How would you create your own wheel of fashion? Isn't it fun, to spin the wheel around and let is carry you to a night out, a trip to the countryside or a garden party...

Black ink does feel very of the moment, especially when it is made into these wispy, lacy, Lacroix dresses, that are light and magical as spiderwebs.Then a blast of color with the tremendous Chihuly chandelier in the lobby of the V&A. Wow, I could sit all day in that room and just dream and sketch and think about whatever is on my mind while I wait for a friend ...Don't we all need a Biba suit, something head to toe in a wildly decorative pattern to wear and while sitting and waiting for our friend in the V&A atrium, marveling at the Chuilly and all the excitement in being there and being able to enjoy this spectacular and imaginative museum ... !

Free November fashion screensaver

2009-11-02T22:03:00.006+01:00

click here to download or print the November screensaver

2009 is racing by and November is already upon us! I continue with my monthly sketches sharing my fashion thoughts and sketches with my fellow bloggers. This month’s calendar is about mixing the unexpected in highly personal ways. Sketched is a denim skirt from my book, Denim Revolution, that was cut and stitched with a sweep of red plaid insets. It is styled with over the knee boots, a lacey sweater and a retro, leopard printed bag. Hair is shaggy and the style is nonchalant, of the moment, fun. I hope you enjoy a wonderful November and freely discover and express your individuality in fashion and beyond!

Finally a new header for fall

2009-10-11T18:08:00.007+02:00

We are already deep into the autumn and the summery header needed to go. Today's rainy day turned into the perfect excuse to create something more reflective of the fall leaves and the sprays of deep red berries. The Venetian mask catches one's imagination, and mixed with the textures of handmade, fantasy worlds, deep hued shades and hand printed papers from Italy, the header grew into a mix of personal memories and thoughts about the future.It's whimsical, romantic and also carries me to this sketch of the little Russian cape and long laced trimmed denim skirt, from my book of re-cycled denim. Wishing everyone a happy fall!

DIY a romantic Halloween mask

2009-10-10T22:12:00.006+02:00

Venetian Carnival

This is one of my most fun projects - to make and to wear -

(click here for the step-by-step tutorial)

Made with a scrap of re-cycled denim, it was posted last year, and just as lovely this year.

And here it is sketched with a re-cycled denim cape. Happy Halloween!

Musings about nature and handknits

2009-10-10T14:29:00.011+02:00

Thoughts about the forest and the woods, the earthy rich colors and smells of nature are influencing my drawings. Wooly handknits, created from hand spun yarns, in deep rich hues are mixed with torn cloths and imaginative stitches to create clothing that feels and looks like they've been swept from the floor of the forest. Twigs, leaves, moss or feathers are combined into capes and hats. Soft layers of silky skirts or velvet leggings feel cozy and natural with pretty suede boots and slippers. Hats are sketched with horns, feathers, veils and hearts. They spin high on the crown, like one worn by a princess in the woods.

October fashion screensaver inspired by Kirafashion

2009-09-29T21:43:00.005+02:00

(click here to upload the screensaver or print a copy.)

In a whim, I drew the October screensaver inspired by the beauty, natural grace and stylish love for fashion, expressed by Kira, who writes the Brazilian fashion blog http://www.kirafashion.com.br/.

Until pen touches paper, I actually never know what I am going to draw, and this month was no exception. My pencils just sort of found their way around the page, until the message came through.

When I’m drawing I want to bring the viewer into an imaginary world that is filled with the mood, the feelings and the glow of the natural changes in the seasons that inspire my fashion swings.

For October, I’ve carried Kira into a forest, filled with the gentle winds of fall and styled her with a black leather biker jacket, thigh high boots, lacey tights and the denim Parisian pouf skirt (naturally from my book, Denim Revolution.) It’s a romantic mix of old and new, the familiar and the unexpected, reflecting the friendships that we value. I hope it inspires you to be free, express yourself and enjoy October and all that it blows into your world.

How to mend and patch jeans like a fashion pro

2009-09-24T17:38:00.001+02:00

- click here for tutorial -

Sometimes jeans are literally hanging together by threads and it's time to express your fashion prowess, experiment with your sewing skills and start mending and patching. Not only will it improve the durability and life of the jeans ... but it is so fun to enjoy the results.

On this blog, I am going to share with you some mending and patching tutorials - starting right here (click here) with my most basic technique, and also a heavenly one - just for denim - that I call, "cat and mouse."

Hope you love it, and shoot me any questions or images!

Denim is our comfort clothing and more

2009-09-24T16:29:00.000+02:00

(above and below - Ralph Lauren Spring 2010 collection)
Denim is our comfort clothing. And when it becomes shredded, worn, ripped and stained it is even more appealing and personal. That's the moment when our jeans take on a new energy – built around a romantic history of having lived, loved and traveled. Designers know this and try to find ways to satisfy and define their denim beliefs. Carine Roitfeld and French Vogue rarely let an issue go by without a denim story or at least the "model's own jeans." Currently, at the spring 2010 fashion shows on both sides of the Atlantic, designers are sending jeans down the catwalk, that look like they are the model’s own, accessorized like model’s do, with all the knick-knacks that they seem to inherit from the previous shows or fittings. The look is never more charming when it is authentic and you do it yourself, mending, patching or beading your own way.

Hobo jeans

2009-09-12T11:19:00.004+02:00

Old rugged jeans have been reinvented into these lush, hobo jeans, by a quilter with an abundance of wonderful patches ... I love what she did and wanted to share it - as it reminds one to stash away fabric scraps and even old or stained clothing if the fabric is interesting, as they soon become our "new" treasures and the latest fashion looks!

A peek into the CHANEL atelier

2009-09-06T18:02:00.007+02:00

While ... roaming around the internet, I landed on stylebubble, who’s enthusiasm for fashion discoveries and her daring style is always sooo inspirational, and she led me to these wonderful photos by Luciano Fileti, that capture a very privy view into the Chanel atelier, the craftsmen and women, with their beautiful working tables, their delicate, whimsical and stylish touch, on all things and everything in between - creating marvelous fantasies. Isn’t it simply amazing what one can do with paper, and black and white!

... and powdered ink, ... is that what this is? And how fine craftmanship seems to transcend fashion, place and time, and carry you into another world ... .

September fashion screensaver

2009-08-30T12:22:00.007+02:00

(Click here to upload or print the September 2009 screensaver)

September’s calendar is inspired by our desire each fall to update and brighten up our wardrobes. Fashion whims are discovered through our feelings about the world, our dreams and our changing lifestyles. Sketched in this month’s screensaver is a DIY, re-constructed, denim jacket with hounds tooth check (sketched with faux fur, leopard shoes and a Coco belt) cuffs and collar from, naturally, my book ... Denim Revolution. I adore this jacket which was fun and easy to make. Sewing, re-fashioning cast-offs or new finds, mending, patching, playing with shapes and materials in individual ways, is very rewarding. You can make a difference in this world by your choices, by balancing your individuality and homemaking skills with new buys from favorite designers as you update your fall wardrobe and pack away the summer T’s. Updating your wardrobe is part of the process of giving a gust of positive energy to your outlook as you take on new challenges or set new goals for the upcoming year. Follow your urges and enjoy!

Recycle household plastics into chic photo-stands

2009-08-26T18:26:00.000+02:00

If, like me you are always collecting and gathering special mementos - like postcards, photos and sketches - that inspire thoughts and memories of events or ideas that you want to remember or reflect on, ... then here is a easy and fresh way to display them around your home ---

The 3-step 3-minute DIY Process:

--Sort through your empty household plastic or cardboard containers;

--Choose the ones in the colors, patterns or textures you love, that will also sit level on your table or shelf;

--Cut a little slit (I used an exacto knife, so this is only for adults,) slightly angled toward the back, about an inch deep, and slip the postcard through it. Finito!

Once I started I kinda went crazy with all kinds of version. At the very top image, on the library mantle, I used blue and green water bottles cut down, with yogurt and can tops; and in the image just above, from the left -- a feta cheese container, upside down; the bright yellow top of a windex spray; the top of a starch spray can; and an upside down chocolate dessert container. The photo of the model in the denim skirt, by the way, is from my book, Denim Revolution, of the diy back to school projects -- "schoolgirl charm skirt and waist cincher." The version above from the left is the top of a whipped cream container, the chocolate dessert container, the spray top, and the feta cheese container.
And here is a carton that some pears came in, with a postcard of Mark Rothko contemplating his Seagram paintings.

Sewing pattern archive is open to the public for a one-week free trial

2009-08-21T14:28:00.006+02:00

CoPA, the Commercial Pattern Archive database at the University of Rhode Island is offering a one week FREE trial to download their extensive collection of home sewing patterns. The login is: guest, and, the password is: pattern. Above is one of McCall's Rudi Gernreich pattern's from 1967, modeled by Peggy Moffitt! Do start by reading the instructions and then just search, lots to curl up and discover.

Easy summer pizza recipe - mozzarella and arugula

2009-08-16T18:06:00.013+02:00

If , like me, cooking with fresh, simple, local ingredients is one of your great pleasures, then you understand that vacationing in Italy is true bliss. I feel as carefree and happy as my sketch when I am gathering ingredients, cooking and sharing a meal. This menu was only pizza - one made with fresh mozzarella and halved cherry tomatoes cooked on a round of pizza dough, and then, served with a bunch of freshly picked arugula tossed on top, which sort of melts and has the most wonderful aroma. Peppered olive oil (just push some dried peppers into your jug of olive oil) and freshly ground salt was sprinkled on top to taste, which means a most generous portion of that olive oil.

And another page from my sketchook filled with thoughts, impressions, recipes and more.

Family quilts used for wedding decorations

2009-08-15T11:45:00.005+02:00

Following on my quilting moment, click here to view an inspired wedding, where, among others, quilts made by the bride's great grandmother and aunts were scattered around adding to the festivities in unexpected ways.

A rather special French quilt

2009-08-14T18:55:00.003+02:00

This quilted antique, uncovered in France years ago, has been pulled and put away numerous times and finally it's going to become a pillow, with a soft fringed edging of some sort, still to be decided. I think it is so lovely, the vintage printed cotton fabric, and the swirly quilted stitch, that I wanted to post it -- hoping it --

-- will inspire someone, somewhere, who is quilting something or other!

Quilt made from re-cycled men's shirtings

2009-08-13T22:09:00.004+02:00

Men's shirts, especially white ones and blue and white ones, have always been at the top of my list of favorites. So when my sister offered to sew me a quilt, it had to be made from men's shirtings. Chambray has been used as the border and Egyptian cotton is the background. It is yummy, light and perfectly cozy as a summer blanket. And we ended up making it together in the end -- which was fun, fun!

Liberty's Fall 2009 newsy email

2009-08-09T17:29:00.014+02:00

I really start to droll when I receive Liberty's newsletter. Starting with these brooches, gorgeously realized by Amanda Fatherazai, with her signature couturier perfection, ...

... their fall list of must-haves range from stitching classes, morning and afternoon tea included - after all it is Liberty's, Ebony and Ivory Bespoke scarves and Hermes Pour Liberty. Those four are my personal favorites of the moment. Liberty's is like no other store. They harmoniously blend their creativity with an attention to detail and style that inspires, and always delights the eye in unexpected and whimsical ways.

Pin cushion tutorial

2009-08-02T21:21:00.008+02:00

Here is another cushy pot, and as I'm naming them, this one's called "Sugar and Cream." The base is a very old metal coffee filter and the cushion is made from vintage fabrics including an old pillow case, trims, and of course...denim.

Click the link here - and it will take you to a cushy pot tutorial.

Share your pin cushion creativity here - on flikr.

And here's still another cushy pot, this one named "Glam Pot."

August's fashion screensaver

2009-08-01T11:02:00.014+02:00

download this month's screensaver here,

to upload it as your screensaver or to print a hard copy

August is the time for travels and renewal. Coming home with flowers, tastes and sketches from journeys, this month's screensaver turned into a collage of memories. Cuffed jean shorts seems to be the summer '09 uniform for both genders worn with breezy white cottons by foot or on two wheels. And the awe of Pisa never fades. Below are a few more images. Handmade shoes in Florence...swimming trunks in patterns and colors like one can only find in Milan.

... And I'm collecting napkins (so descriptive of the spot) from favorite cafes like 10 corso como and Princi in Milan and another one from Caffe Florian in Venice, as dreamy as ever. Happy August!

Bike culture

2009-07-28T19:12:00.006+02:00

Bikes that have been stamped with a very personal statement are not only cheerful in a friendly way, but also more practical, because they are easy to identify and less likely to be stolen.

Hand painted furniture

2009-07-28T18:56:00.004+02:00

Doesn't this make you want to get out your brushes and start painting some basic pine furniture?

I've been traveling around Italy and soaking up the artistry. My delightful hotel in Florence was still filled (though the main reception rooms were re-done ultra modern) with the original handpainted furniture, reflecting the beauty discovered at every turn.

The bubble - a swimsuit cover up you can sew

2009-07-13T21:56:00.005+02:00

My first sewing machine was a Singer, and I am a graduate of a Singer Sewing class, so when I read on craftzine that Singer is offering an online swimsuit coverup competition, I decided - to sew something up, something whimsical, loose and breezy, and named it "the bubble."Here it is, worn over leggings but also perfect with jeans or naturally a swim suit. If you want to make one, the measurements are simple and super oversized - cut a big tube - shoulder to shoulder it will measure 25" wide x 28" shoulder to the top of the 5 1/2 bottom band. It's all made from knitted fabric - dots, bubbles and lime green - with the bottom band doubled over for extra stretch, and finished with a zigzag finish around the neck and cuffs. The neck is a big wide scoop opening 15" with a 6" front neck drop. Hope that it inspires you to enter the contest - the more the merrier.

Pinwheels of colors on etsy

2009-07-05T11:20:00.000+02:00

http://www.etsy.com/color.php

Which is your favorite color?

Amelia's magazine and Shelter fundrasier

2009-07-03T15:10:00.000+02:00

When I first saw Amelia’s magazine back in May 2006, with her smiling childhood photo on the cover, I was in awe. I loved it for the magical and witty illustrations and her uninhibited and freely roaming expression about fashion, style, music and concern about the environment and the future. It was more book-like than magazine, very personal and open, and rich in content and creativity. Unfortunately the hard copy has folded, but she continues to have a strong following and online presence through her blog (here I am.)

When I read her call for submissions in aid of Shelter, the UK charity for the homeless I had to send in a submission. I am thrilled that I made the first cut, from which she will choose 52 illustrations, all on the theme - the TWO OF HEARTS, and create a quilt. Her quilt, along with artwork by other artists and designers (including Stella Vine, Basso and Brooke and Rachel Whiteread) will be exhibitied this summer in the UK, and auctioned to raise money for the charity.

My drawing reflects my thoughts about being homeless and the enormous strain that poverty puts on a family and relationships. Hoping that a safe and secure home will help mend a broken home, I drew a heart, formed from many pieces and patched up, re-gaining it's power with a busy family in toe, named- Shelter for a Broken Heart. It's sad, it's happy, it's about life.

You can see all the intriguing and imaginative drawings on Facebook. Doesn’t it make you want to design your own deck of cards…?

A free July screensaver

2009-07-02T18:13:00.000+02:00

(click here to download this month's drawing and use it as a screen saver,

or to print it out - it's free!

It's July, it's sunny and the weekends seem to stretch longer. It's time to enjoy a carefree barefoot dance on the beach ... dressed with a cut, cropped striped t and denim short shorts layered under a stretchy flowered mini. The drawing is rather silly, youngish and spirited this month. That's just what happened. I hope it inspires you to express yourself.

Book give-away and podcast on craftsanity.com

2009-06-28T11:52:00.000+02:00

Jennifer at craftsanity is buzzing with enthusiasm and ideas for craft-niks. She inspired me to start making aprons, denim ones, and then, naturally, one apron developed into three, and then four.

Visit her site for a podcast with me. We speak about fashion, designing, fashion sketching, combining work and family, and naturally, sewing denim cast-offs. I loved meeting Jennifer, who is an amazing mother, journalist and online, craft trailblazer.

Jennifer also is doing a "Denim Revolution" book giveaway! Yes, it's free, just leave a comment on her blog to enter the drawing.

And, a step-by-step how to make the "Hanky Panky Cowgirl" apron in the top photo.

Which can be downsized or done up differently for little girls like in the photo below. (I've discovered it is the perfect outfit for play dates in Central Park, jumping on backyard trampolines and even as a cosy blanket for a sleepy plush puppy.) It's an easy craft project for a lazy summer day.

More homemade Pin Cushions in Pots

2009-06-18T17:16:00.000+02:00

The pin cushions are taking over the studio! As always, I have a well founded excuse. It's just that I have so many rather useless but truly lovely containers that can now serve a purpose -- masquerading as pin cushions. And honestly, they are more often becoming quite useful paper weights with the windows open in the summer time, or, funny little decorations that just appear in the house in unexpected and humorous ways.

Posh Pin Pot

This one, held by a trio of angels, is made out of lovely embossed silk velvets, an olive silk looped cord and topped with this goregeous, chinese hand made silk button.

Orange Pekoe in the Pot

The old chinese tea tin is topped with a retro printed cotton, a polka dot jersey covers the join, and buttons are everywhere, covering joins and adding to the festive character. It looks to me like either a jewerly stand, to keep dimestore jewerly, or to stay as a pin cushion ... hmmm. What do you think!

Pin cushion on a vintage button jar

2009-06-14T22:29:00.001+02:00

Okay, I caught the pin cushion bug! Here's another one. This time the cushion is on top of a glass container, maybe from the 30's. I've turned it into a button jar, for storing favorite vintage buttons - and the pin cushion is a patchwork of vintage fabrics encircled with a bit of bandana, topped with - naturally, some vintage buttons. Now, since it was finished, I'm waiting for someone to ask me to sew on a button ... .

Summer hearts, flowers, bees and butterflies

2009-06-08T22:35:00.000+02:00

Spoonflower.com is where you can print some lovely cotton or linen cotton blend fabric in one of your own artistic visions or afavorite memento, or order yardage from another artists' original work. I am always amazed and delighted by what I discover there and have entered my fabric, "Sweet Charity" in their their fabric of the week contest.

My design, is centered in a fabric width 42" x 36", printed from a hand drawing by little ole me scattered with love, flowers and bees and butterflies. In the photo just above, it is on a garden table. And naturally, I used it as a backdrop for a screen saver (in the photo down below), ...but it has mostly functioned as a sunscreen taped to our large kitchen, picture window (the top photo.) When I gaze up at it, I think about finishing the edges with some lace or woven braid, or how beautiful it could look in the center of a large quilt, with a pretty floral border, picking up the black and yellow tones...or maybe adding a patched floral and gingham border to fit a larger table...hmmm... Since it is from an original drawing, it is signed once on a repeat, and it is also open to the public domain to purchase at Spoonflower. One repeat is all you need, to gift, sew or brighten up your day. Vote for your favorite fabric - and I hope it's "Sweet Charity" and that I win!

I would love to hear how you would use this cloth.

Another handmade pin cushion

2009-06-07T14:07:00.000+02:00

Cherry Blossoms

I'm calling them "Cushy Pots" because they are just that, a cushion snug like a bug, stuffed in a pot.
For this one, the base is a simple, a very plain piece of damaged pottery found for 50 cents, that I covered with strips of cotton printed fabric, and then the cushion, a funky shape, pretty vintage fabric scrap, a bit of lace and gaudy silk flowers taken apart and sprinkled on top.
More to follow but I'd love to hear from you -- your thoughts about Cushy Pots...

Cocconia - almond scented glue

2009-06-06T19:35:00.000+02:00

Charming equipment enhances the joy of handmade. I adore this glue, Coccoina, the little brush, the lovely tin, the sweet almond scent, and a wonderful addition to any craft-nik's box of tools.

Pin cushions to make and enjoy - from flea market finds

2009-06-03T21:11:00.000+02:00

I'm busy making pin cushions!
With fun names like "Lady Limoges" and "Orange Pekoe Tea Time." It all began when I found a piece of Limoges pottery in the flea market for 3 Euros, a one of a once pair of candlesticks. A quick decision was taken, without much consideration or consultation that it couldn't be left behind but deserved to be re-cycled into something else that was pretty, useful and decorative.
Much more to follow soon with a tutorial or two!

Trash becomes preschooler's art at Beginnings

2009-06-01T09:47:00.000+02:00

Photo: Piotr Redlinski for the New York Times

"Robin Koo, a studio art teacher at Beginnings, helps to oversee the potpourri in the fourth-floor attic that serves as the school's Materials Center." NYT

Wow, this looks like every craftnik's candy store! Organized household disposables of all varieties have become an integral part of art and self-expression at every age (above they fill the art supply room of a NYC nursery school.)

When confronted with a pile of "trash" and a desire to create, the range of possibilities is full of intriguing surprises. There is something that captures our imagination about the concept of taking something that has been tossed aside because it no longer has a practical use and making it once again a worthy item, of looking with fresh eyes at something that is raised from the junk pile to a thing of beauty. Everyone has their own vision. We incorporate our wishes, dreams, experiences and needs into our re-invention of junk. What better material to work from than the functional, ordinary items that we used to carry to the re-cycle center and are becoming obsolete and precious?